The View from Morocco

Moroccan Recipes from The View from Fez

2010-02-02T04:24:00.000Z

The View from Fez team are frequently asked for Moroccan recipes. So, please, before you send an email, check out the list of Moroccan recipes we have collected over the years. And yes... we have cooked for Rick Stein and we will eventually publish a book, inshallah.

Rick Stein learns how to make chermoula from The View from Fez team!

The links below are to stories that contain a recipe.

Moroccan lamb couscous recipe

How to make B'stilla (photo essay).

Moroccan couscous - the traditional way

Moroccan kefta tagine

Preserved Lemon Recipe - Moroccan Preserved Lemon.

Lamb Shanks with Dates and Olives

Fish tagine with preserved lemon and Chermoula

Chermoula

Orange and Cinnamon salad

Laymun bel-Qerfa (Orange and Cinnamon Salad)

Lamb, Prune, and Date Tagine

Lamb, Artichoke and Broad Bean Tagine

Chicken Salad with Almonds, Mango and Argan Oil

M'qalli chicken with olives and preserved lemon

Roast Turkey Moroccan Style

Video demonstration of Chicken Tagine

Dorade (fish) dipped in nutty couscous, with tomato and mint salad

Harira - Moroccan soup

Making perfect Moroccan mint tea (Photo essay)

Moroccan Mint Tea #2

Stuffed leg of lamb - Moroccan style

Berber bread with argan oil and honey

Making bread the Berber way

Prickly Pear Health Water

Sellou - a Moroccan Ramadan sweet recipe.

2010 Fez World Sacred Music Festival

2010-02-02T04:07:00.001Z

The provisional programme for next year's Fes Festival of World Sacred Music has been announced.

The festival runs from 4-12 June in Fez medina, and promises some interesting innovations such as morning ragas at the Batha Museum and a night in the medina, when artists will perform in various locations, including the Bouanania Medersa and Riad Sheherazade.

The 16th annual

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music
4-12 June 2010

Provisional Programme

Theme: In Search of the Sacred Other

Friday 4 June

Bab Makina 20h30

Royal Ballet of Cambodia (Cambodia) The Legend of the Creation of the Khmer Kingdom

Saturday 5 June

Batha Museum 16h00

The Young Gotipuras Dancers (India) Ritual acrobatic dance from the temples of Orissa

Bab Makina 20h30

Ben Harper (USA) The roots of popular American music, from gospel to blues, from reggae to folk

Al Green (USA) Gospel (to be confirmed)

Sunday 6 June

Batha Museum 16h30

Shakila Saidi & the Rajab Suleiman Trio (Tanzania) The art of taraab in Swahili tradition

Bab Makina 20h30

Africa Spirit: The Sufi Ensemble Mtendeni Maulid (Zanzibar) and Les Maîtres Tambours (Burundi) Sufi ritual and sacred rhythm

Monday 7 June

Batha Museum 16h30

Ahmed Essyad and the Accroche Note Ensemble (Morocco) Forbidden Voices: mystical poems of Hussain Mansour Al-Hallaj

A Night in the Medina 20h30

Various locations including the Bouanania Medersa, Riad Sheherazade, Dar Jnan Sbil, Dar Adiyel Conservatoire and Dar Ba Mohamed Chergui:

The Constantinople Ensemble and Barbara Furtuna (Iran & France) Canti di a Terra

Parvathy Baul (India) The poetry of God's fools

Poets and musicians from Kabul (Afghanistan) (in partnership with the Aga Khan Initiative)

Epi (Mongolia) Songs of the Steppe Nomads

Gülay Haçer Toruk (Turkey) Songs of Anatolia

Raïs Qenawi Bakhit Qenawi and the Mizmar Ensemble (Egypt) Songs of Luxor

Tuesday 8 June

Batha Museum 16h30

SamulNori Hanullim Ensemble (South Korea) Percussion and Sacred Dance of Korea

Bab Makina 20h30

Shahram Nazeri (Iran) with Mohamed Bajeddoud (Morocco) and the Arabo-Andalusian Orchestra of Fez The poetry of Jalâl ud Dîn Rûmî

Wednesday 9 June

Batha Museum 16h30

Camille (France) Sacred songs

Bab Makina 20h30

Jordi Savall and the Hesperion XXI Ensemble (Spain) with guests from Morocco, Iraq, Greece, Israel, Galilee and Armenia Jerusalem, City of Heavenly Peace and Earthly Peace

Thursday 10 June

Batha Museum 08h00

Pandit Hariprasad Chaurasia (India) Morning ragas on a bansuri flute

Batha Museum 16h30

Bagdad-Jerusalem Ensemble (Israel & Iraq) Music of the Jewish tradition of Baghdad

Bab Makina 20h30

Sizero Tabla Experience (India & United Kingdom) Rhythmic India

Friday 11 June

Batha Museum 16h30

Dhafer Youssef and his Ensemble (Tunisia) Sufi Songs revisited

Bab Makina 20h30

Sabah Fakri and the Aleppo Singers (Syria)

Saturday 12 June

Batha Museum 16h30

David Murray and the Gwo Ka Masters invite Archie Shepp (USA & Caribbean)

Bab Makina 20h30

Gospel Voices:

1st part: Sista Kee (USA)

2nd part: The Blind Boys of Alabama (USA)

FEZ MEETINGS (formerly known as Fez Encounters Colloquium)

and

FESTIVAL IN THE CITY PROGRAMME

to be announced

Useful links:

For full details of these artists, see the Festival website.

For festival accommodation, see Fez Riads

Ticket collection service

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Jordi Savall at the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music

2010-02-02T04:05:00.000Z

As always, The View from Fez brings you news of the Fes Festival. We start with Jordi Savall, world-renowned Catalan musician and composer who will perform at Bab el Makina at 20h30 on Wednesday 9 June.

Jordi Savall is long been one of the foremost figures in early music, ranging from medieval, to Renaissance to Baroque. He is largely responsible for bringing the viol (viola da gamba) back into play. Savall was recently awarded the National Prize for Culture by the Catalonia National Council for Culture and the Arts. This will be his second appearance at the Fes Festival.

Pliny described Jerusalem as 'by far the most illustrious city of the Orient', and in this latest piece presented by Jordi Savall, Jerusalem - la ville des deux paix, the music retraces 3200 years of the history of this sacred city. Jordi calls it a magical journey, outside of time, of Sufi music and Hebrew lamentations.

Savall will be accompanied in Fez by his choral groups Hesperion XXI and Capella Reial de Catalunya as well as various guests, representing Spain, Morocco, Iraq, Greece, Israel, Galilee and Armenia. This prestigious melange of Jewish, Christian and Muslim musicians echoes the foundations of the city they celebrate. Jerusalem is presented as a welcoming city, and although peaceful at the moment, it lives in hope of reuniting the two 'peaces' of its name.

Music by Jordi Savall and Montserrat Figueras; story and text by Manuel Forcano.

See the Festival programme here.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Initiation is Fez Festival theme 2010

2010-02-02T04:04:00.000Z

This year's Fes Festival of World Sacred Music has the theme Journey of Initiation: from mystery to revelation.

Mohamed Kabbaj, Director General of the Festival, explains the theme as follows:

'The journey of initiation is concerned with learning about the world, discovery of the other, knowledge of the self, the quest for spirituality.

We all know of the great mystical figures, those emblems of each religion, such as Ghazali, the poet of the Revelation; Maimonides, exiled to Fez; Charles de Faoucalut in the solitude of the desert; the Buddha and his enlightenment. Knowing about such world figures has nourished civilisations.

'Man knows here what he doesn't know there', wrote Ibn Arabi, whose entire work encompassed a journey of initiation. This great mystical poet cconsidered every journey as being towards God: 'from Him, in Him, towards Him'.

The 16th annual Fes Festival lies within this realm of the journey towards initiation.'

Please note that there are some slight changes to the programme of events at the Festival.
For the programme in English, see here, and in French, see here.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Festival of Sufi Culture - 17-24 April 2010

2010-02-02T03:59:00.001Z

Once again, Faouzi Skali has pulled out all the stops to make this year's Festival of Sufi Culture a magnificent event, with interesting topics of discussion and concerts in sublime surroundings such as the Bouanania Medersa and the Batha Museum gardens.

The Festival runs from 17-24 April and has the theme Mystery and Poetry. It will feature presentations, discussions and round tables on subjects such as spirituality and social change, soul therapy, the poetry of Ibn Arabi and the ancient Sufi manuscripts held at the Qaraouiyine Library and in Timbuctu, Mali. Thursday 22 April is Earth Day, when ecology will be highlighted.

Evening concerts will not only feature various Moroccan Sufi brotherhoods, but also Shaykh Habboush from Syria with Jalal Eddeine of France.

Festival Director Faouzi Skali

Here's the full programme:

Saturday 17 April

10h00-noon Introductory Address at the Qaraouiyine Library: What is Sufism? by Faouzi Skali

Address: The Kingdom of Saints by Zakia Zouanat, anthopologist, writer, Sufi specialist (Morocco)

Address: The Sufi manuscripts of the Qaraouiyine by Abdellah el Ouazzani, university lecturer, author and presenter of TV programme for 2M on Islamic news (Morocco)

16h00-18h00: Round table discussion at the Batha Museum: Poetry for Civilisation

Presentation: Bensalem Himmich, Minister of Culture (Morocco)

Edgar Morin, sociologist, philosopher, emeritus director of research at CNRS (France)

Bariza Khiari, socialist senator (France)

Nahal Tajddod, Iranian team member at CNRS and author of several history books (Iran/France)

Jean Claude Carrière, writer, scriptwriter (France)

Mohammed Barrada, former minister of finance and Moroccan ambassador to France, professor of economics (Morocco)

21h00 Concert at Batha Museum: Shaykh Habboush and Jalal Eddeine Weiss Ecstatic Song (Syria, France)

Sunday 18 April

10h00-12h00 Round table at the Batha Museum: Reconsidering development

Assia Bensalah Alaoui, itinerant ambassador for Morocco, professor of public law (Morocco)

Patrick Viveret, advisor in national accountability, philosopher, essayist (France)

Majid Rahnema, writer, lecturer at American University in Paris (France/Iran)

Katherine Marshall, professor at Georgetown University, advisor to the World Bank (US)

Alia Al Dalli, resident representative of the PNUD in Morocco (Iraq)

Mats Karlsson, director of the Maghreb, North African and Middle Eastern desk at the World Bank (Sweden)

16h00-18h00 at the Batha Museum

1st part: Nahal Tajddod and Jean Claude Carrière: La conférence des oiseaux by Farid Eddin Attar (France/Iran)

2nd part: Karima Skalli and Said Chraibi: Homage to Abu al Hassan Ash Shusturi

21h00 Concert at Batha Musseum: The Chishty Sufi Sama Ensemble Shahi Qawwals from Ajmer Dargah Sharif (India)

Monday 19 April

10h00 to noon: Conference at the Batha Museum: Portrait of a Living Saint: Sidi Hamza Al Qadiri Al Boutchichi by Mountasser Hamada, writer and journalist (Morocco) and Faouzi Skali

16h00-18h00 Round table at the Batha Museum: Spirituality and Social Change

Alain Chevillat, director and founder of the Université Terre du Ciel (France)

Yacine Demaison, speaker, educator (France)

Bernard Ginisty, philosopher, former director of Témoignage Chrétien, co-founder of ATTAC (France)

Aoua Ly-tall, sociologist, founding president of African Women's Network (Canada/West Africa)

21h00 Evening of Samaa at the Bouanania Medersa: Hassani songs by the Boutchichiyya Brotherhood of Laâyoune (Morocco)

Tuesday 20 April

10h00-noon Conference at the Batha Museum: Spiritual Chivalry (Futuwwa): A Path for our Times? by Jaafar Kansoussia, intellectual, Sufi specialist (Morocco)

16h00-18h00 Conference at the Batha Museum: The Mystery and Poetry of Ibn Arabi by A. Filali, university professor (Morocco), Cecilia Twinch, speaker in Ibn Arabi Society, Oxford (UK), Ahmed El Kheligh, TV journalist on 2M and Radio Médi 1, Sufi specialist (Morocco) and David Hornsby, member of Ibn Arabi Society, Oxford (UK)

21h00 Evening of Samaa at the Bouanania Medersa:

1st part: Charqawiyya Brotherhood (Morocco)

2nd part: Darqawiyya Brotherhood (Morocco)

Wednesday 21 April

10h00-noon Conference at the Batha Museum: Soul Therapy by Eric Geoffroy, writer on Islam, Sufi specialist (France)

16h00-18h00 Workshop at Batha Museum

1st part: Poetry in a Garden

2nd part: The Savoury Path: nourish the soul, nourish the body by Jeanne Bouguet, gastronome, dietician (France)

21h00 Evening of Samaa at the Bouanania Medersa:

1st part: Alawiyya Brotherhood (Morocco)

2nd part: Wazzania Brotherhood (Morocco)

Thursday 22 April

10h00-noon Conference at the Batha Museum: Earth Day

Ecology: material necessity or a way of living?

Kamal Oudghiri, communication engineer at NASA (Morocco/USA)

Pierre Rabhi, writer, founder of Terre et humanisme (France)

Caroline Chabot, journalist at Actes et Sens (France)

Nicholas Moller, president of the Global Institute for New Energy Technologies GIFNET (Denmark)

Fattouma Benabdenbi, sociologist and founder member of the Association Marocaine pour la Promotion de l'Entrprise Féminine ESPOD (Morocco)

Jean Marie Pelt, renowned ecologist and botanist, president of the European Institute of Ecology since 1972 (France)

16h00-18h00 Conference at the Batha Museum: The Timbuctu Manuscripts

Abdelkader Haïdara, scholar, collector and holder of a private library of manuscripts (Mali)

Abdul Laraw, collector and holder of a private library of manuscripts, specialist in manuscript conservation techniques (Mali)

Souada Maoulainine, speaker, Sufi specialist (Morocco)

Fatima Harrak, director of the Institut des Etudes Africaines (Morocco)

Marie-Odile Delacour, journalist and writer (France)

Jean-René Huleu, journalist (France)

21h00 Concert at the Batha Museum: Haj Mohammed Bennis: Al Munfarija, Samaa of Fez (Morocco)

Friday 23 April

10h00-noon Conference at the Batha Museum: Film and Spirituality: Cinema in the quest for meaning by Nabil Ayouche, film-maker (Morocco)

16h00-18h00: Cultural Café: Art and Spirituality with the participation of Amadou and Mariam (singers from Mali), Setsuko Klossowska de Rola (Japanese painter) and Salamatou Sow (University of Niger)

21h00 Concert at the Batha Museum: Hussain Al Aadhamy: Maqamat du désir divin (Iran/Jordan)

Saturday 24 April

10h00-noon Conference at the Batha Museum: The Quest of Ibn Battouta by Said Taghmaoui, Franco-American actor of Moroccan origin

Love is stronger than Death by Professor H. Joyeux, professor in the medical faculty at Montpellier, founder of the Health, Love and Sexuality conferences, writer (France)

and Fanny Abadi, psychotherapist, founder of the International Centre for Ethical Training and the Association for Humanitarian Ethical Action (France)

16h00-18h00 Round table at the Batha Museum: Islam and the West: traces of light

Mahmoud Hussein, the pseudonym for two authors: Baghgat Elnadi and Adel Rifaat (France/Egypt)

Fatema Mernissi, sociologist and writer (Morocco)

Hassan Abou Ayoub, former government minister, itinerant ambassador (Morocco)

Mustapha Chérif, philosopher, theologian, researcher in human and social sciences (Algeria)

Maati Kabbal, writer and journalist (Morocco)

Abdou Hafidi, politician, professor and presenter of Islam on France 2 (France)

Saad Khiari, writer, involved in many programmes on dialogue between faiths and cultures (France)

21h00 Concert at the Jnan Palace Hotel: Noubas Spirituelles: the great voices of Samaa in Morocco, with Mohammed Briouel

For more information, contact the Association du Festival de Fes de la Culture Soufie at www.festivalculturesoufie.com.

Accommodation in Fez at festival time will be at a premium. If you're planning to attend the festival, check Fez Riads. For homestays with Moroccan families in the medina, see Ziyarates Fes.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The Attarine opens at last

2010-02-02T03:57:00.000Z

Perhaps the most beautiful of the ancient medersas of Fez, the Attarine is now open to the public after almost four years of renovation.

main doors, of cedarwood mashrabbiyya, into the courtyard

More intimate than the Bouanania Medersa, the Attarine is next to the Qawariyine Mosque at the bottom of Tala'a Kebira in the heart of the medina. It was built by the Merenid Sultan Abou Said around 1325, and was a favourite amongst scholars. It contains some of most superb mosaic work and some unusual, slim marble columns whose capitals have finely carved calligraphy. The central fountain is fed by a stream.

The carved plaster is mesmerising, and the cedarwood exquisitely worked.

square columns, marble columns

The columns supporting the first floor galleries around the courtyard are square; another unusual feature.

The mihrab in the prayer hall is delicately carved and flanked by black onyx columns. The hall also holds a massive brass chandelier that hangs from the domed ceiling of carved cedarwood. Just beneath the ceiling are a number of windows with green and gold Iraqi glass.

carved stucco above mosaics on a column

The restoration has been sensitively carried out by the Habous (Ministry of Religious Affairs). Replaced mashrabbiyya (carved wooden trellis work) has been stained almost to the colour of the original wood that's nearly 700 years old; renewed sculpted plaster is a little whiter than the original as can be seen in the photograph above, but will soon blend in well, with a little weathering.

On our visit, which cost a paltry Dh10 (less than 1 Euro), we were alone. It seems the guides have yet to discover that the Medersa is now open. Don't miss it.

photographs: Helen Ranger

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez to get new airport

2010-02-02T03:54:00.000Z

A new terminal with an annual capacity of 2.5 million additional passengers will be built at Fes-Sais airport, reports the director general of the National Airports Office (ONDA), Mr. Abdelhanine Benallou.

The new terminal (26,000 m2), which required an investment of Dh 620 million, and will bring the total annual capacity of Fez Sais airport to three million passengers, said the CEO of the ONDA, at a meeting this week in Fez. Construction will start in September and aims to support economic development in the region Fez-Boulemane , said M Benallou.

Attention to infrastructure development in the city is part of a proactive approach to structural development, based on an innovative marketing approach. The ONDA is in the midst of an aggressive growth period to attract international airlines, through the establishment of an attractive pricing policy.

"As a direct result of this stimulation at the Fes-Sais Airport, passenger traffic has seen an average annual growth average of 23 percent during the period 2004-2009," said M Benallou.

The Governor of Fez-Boulemane region, Mr. Mohamed Rherrabi, said that this project will allow regions of Fez , Taza-Al Hoceima-Taounate and Meknes Tafilalet to strengthen their competitiveness and economic development, especially when taking into consideration other projects already launched like the Fes-Oujda highway.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Morocco - an essential reading list

2009-04-16T13:46:00.002Z

The View from Fez gets a lot of enquiries about what books to read before coming to Morocco. So we have decided to make up a suggested reading list of books that we and others have found invaluable. Clicking on the links will take you to an on-line supplier. Enjoy!

Morocco (Country Guide)

Simply the best and most up to date guide book available. This is the 2009 edition by Paul Clammer.

Fez Encounter

Discover twice the city in half the time with this is essential pocket sized guide book for Fez

…full-color pull-out map to help you navigate the medina with ease
…our resident author, Helen Ranger, recommends the best sights, restaurants, shops and entertainment
…unique itineraries and highlights to make the most of a short break in the world's last intact Medina.
…local experts reveal Fez’s secrets: from Si Mohammed el-Amrani on medicinal herbs to Dr. Armand Guigui on Jewish heritage in the Mellah.

Moroccan Arabic: Lonely Planet Phrasebook

Don't leave home without it! It is very easy to use and the locals will appreciate even a few well chosen phrases.

A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco

Suzanna Clarke's bestseller is a real insight into life in Fez - not just about restoration but wonderful and heart-warming descriptions of everyday life in the Medina. There are English, Australian, American and Korean editions.

Lords of the Atlas: The Rise and Fall of the House of Glaoua, 1893-1956

British author Gavin Maxwell (Ring of Bright Water) details the daily life, customs, and rituals in pre-independence Morocco and of recounts the rise and fall of El Hadj T'hani El Glaoui, the legendary tribal warlord through whom the French ruled one of their prize colonies in North Africa. He shows how the blend of Berber, Arab, and black African races created an extraordinary cultural mosaic and explains how the French colonialists recruited the Atlas Mountain tribal warlords to subdue the other tribes. As the chief beneficiary of this policy, El Glaoui was able to rule most of southern Morocco in an absolute fashion, until Morocco's independence from France in 1956 brought an end to the rule of a very colorful warlord. The book contains many superb color photographs that enhance Maxwell's lively narrative.

Fiction & Literature

Spider's House: A Novel

This is the classic by Paul Bowles. A must read. The dilemma of the outsider in an alien society, and the gap in understanding between cultures, recurrent themes of Paul Bowles's writings, are dramatized with brutal honesty in this novel set in Fez, Morocco, during that country's 1954 nationalist uprising. Totally relevant to today's political situation in the Middle East and elsewhere, richly descriptive of its setting, and uncompromising in its characterizations, The Spider's House is perhaps Bowles's best, most beautifully subtle novel.

The Cobbler's Apprentice

Sandy McCutcheon's explosive international thriller contains some wonderfully evocative scenes in Fez.

''The best of the current crop of terrorist thrillers ... This intelligent novel blends the machinations of the spy novel with the action and geopolitics of the international thriller to produce a credible and truly scary read ... This is McCutcheon's finest novel to date.'Jeff Popple (Canberra Times)

'This book is nothing less than a rip-roaring action thriller with politicians and thugs, scientists and spies — and an unnerving sense of the possible.' Samela Harris (Adelaide Advertiser)

'It's a gripping read because of its eerie prescience. But in McCutcheon's professional hands, it will also have you reading on the edge of your seats.' Jan Hallam (Sunday Times)

Secret Son

These two books by the wonderful author Laila Lalami are highly recomended!

Hope and Other Dangerous Pursuits

To purchase simply click on the links!

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Festival of Sufi Culture - 2009

2009-01-27T23:28:00.001Z

Faouzi Skali

Brainchild of Sufi scholar, Faouzi Skali, the 3rd annual Fes Festival of Sufi Culture will be held from 18-25 April. The programme promises some fascinating discussion topics and superb concerts, including various Sufi brotherhoods from Morocco and Algeria, and the Egyptian master, Cheikh Ahmad al-Tuni.
The conference will be held in the Bouanania Medersa, and all the concerts in the Batha Museum.
For more information, see www.par-chemins.com.

a colourful audience at last year's festival

Provisional Programme:

Saturday 18 April

16h00-17h00 INTRODUCTION

Faouzi Skali (Forum President)

Politics and the Economy: Levers towards Spirituality?

17h30-19h00 FORUM: A Soul for Globalisation - Round Table 1

Preventing the food crisis

Dominique Voynet, founder of green political and ecological movement, former Minister of Land Management & the Environment in France, senator for Seine-Saint-Denis

Pierre Rabhi, writer, founder of 'Terre & Humanisme' movement

Nouzha Skalli, Minister of Family Social Development & Solidarity

Pascal Boniface, director of Institut de Relations Internationales et Stratégiques (IRIS) and professor at Institut d'Etudes Européenes

21h00-23h00 CONCERT

Mohammed Tarwat, Saad Tamsamani & Omar Sermini (Morocco/Egypt/Syria)

Songs of East and West

Sunday 19 April

09h00-12h00 FORUM: A Soul for Globalisation - Round Table 2

The end of capitalism?

Majid Rahnema, writer, former Minister of Science & Higher Education in Iran and professor at the American University of Paris

Hervé de Charette, former Minister of Foreign Affairs in the Juppé government, writer

Katherine Marshall, professor at Georgetown University, Director of the Forum, world leader faith and development

Mohamed Berrada, former Minister of Finance and Moroccan Ambassador in Paris, professor of economics

16h00-17h00 CONCERT

Abir Nasraoui & Curro Piñana (Tunisia/Spain)

Tribute to Ibn Arabi

21h00-23h00 CONCERT

Abd al Malik (France/Congo)

Monday 20 April

09h00-12h00 FORUM: A Soul for Globalisation - Round Table 3

Body & Spirit

Henri Joyeux, professor at the Medical Faculty at Montpellier, initiator of the series 'Health, Love & Sexuality', writer

Fanny Didiot-Abadi, psychotherapist, founder of the Centre Ethique International de Formations, and the Association Action Ethique Humanitaire

16h00-17h00 CONCERT

Les Rabia

21h00-23h00 PERFORMANCE

Qadiriyya Boutchichiyya Brotherhood (Morocco)

Tuesday 21 April

09h00-12h00 DISCUSSION: The Manuscripts of Ibn Arabi

David Hornsby, member of the Ibn Arabi Society, Cambridge

Denis Grill, writer on Islam, Ibn Arabi specialist

16h00-17h00 WORKSHOP: Body, art & spirituality

Georges Stobbaerts, Aikido Grand Master, founder of the Tenchi Tessen movement

Mbarek Alaoui, 8th Dan Aikido Master, disciple of Grand Master Georges Stobbaerts

21h00-23h00 PERFORMANCE

Charqawiyya Brotherhood (Morocco)

Wednesday 22 April

09h00-12h00 WORKSHOP: Poems in a Garden

presented by Rajae Slaoui

16h00-17h00 CONCERT

Delgocha (Iran)

21h00-23h00 PERFORMANCE

Wazzaniyya & Saqalliyya Brotherhoods (Morocco)

Thursday 23 April

09h00-12h00 DISCUSSION: Sufism & the Reform of Islam

Cheikh Khaled Bentounes

Eric Geoffroy, writer on Islam, Sufi specialist

16h00-17h00 CONCERT: Music & Chants of the Tidjanis

Daouda Dieye

followed by a discussion on the spiritual culture of Africa, with

Aoua Bocar Ly Tall, sociologist, founding President of African Women's Network

Salamatou Sow, researcher and teacher at the University of Niamey, working towards the knowledge and preservation of the Peul culture of Niger

21h00-23h00 PERFORMANCE

Alawiyya Brotherhood (Algeria)

Friday 24 April

16h00-17h00 FORUM: A Soul for Globalisation - Round Table 4

Democracy: the good and the bad

Assia Alaoui Bensalah, Moroccan roving Ambassador, Co-president of the Groupe des Sages pour le Dialogue des Peuples et des Cultures (EU), professor of law

Emmanuel Todd, politician, demographer, sociologist and French essayist

Benjamin Barber, politician and American writer, professor of Political Science at the University of Maryland, President of the international colloquium, Interdependent Day

Salman Shaikh

Hassan Ibn Ayyoub

21h00-23h00 CONCERT

Cheikh Ahmad al-Tȗni (Egypt)

Saturday 25 April

09h00-12h00 FORUM: A Soul for Globalisation - Round Table 5

The civilisation of globalisation

Edgar Morin, writer, Research Director Emeritus at CNRS, promoter of a new vision of development known as the 'politics of civilisation'

Bariza Khiari, well-known commentator in French politics on Muslim culture, socialist senator for Paris, co-founder of Club 21ème Century

Basma el Husseiny

16h00-17h00 CONCERT

Ali Alaoui (Morocco/France)

Moultaqa Salam

21h00-23h00 CONCERT

Taybah Ensemble, with Sabah Fakhri (Syria)

Tribute to Eva de Vitray-Meyerovitch

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Spotlight #2: Fez Sacred Music Festival 2009

2009-01-27T23:26:00.000Z

Sami Yusuf is a British composer, singer whose concert at Bab Makina will be extremely popular.

Friday June 5.

Bab Makina 20h30

Sami Yussuf (United Kingdom)

Spiritual Songs of the Arab World

Sami was born in July 1980 into a musical family of Azeri origin. He learnt to play several instruments at a very young age and gradually began to show a keen interest in singing and composing. He studied music at several institutions and with renowned composers and musicians including composers from the Royal Academy of Music in London, one of the world most prestigious music institutions.

Sami has been composing from a very young age and his beautiful voice is supplemented by his extensive knowledge of music theory and harmony. He has also a good understanding of the Middle Eastern modes (or Maqams).

Sami is a devout Muslim who sees songs as a means of promoting the message of love, mercy, peace and tolerance and encouraging the youth to be proud of their religion and identity.

His third album, entitled Without You, was planned for release during mid-2008 but was delayed and then officialy launched in January 2009. Sami performed two of the songs from his new album in his Wembley concert (21 October 2007), and during his US tour, organised by Islamic Relief.

SAMI YUSSUF- Palestine by Mahdi

Spotlight #1: Fez Sacred Music Festival 2009

Fez Sacred Music Festival 2009: Ticket collection service.

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music 2009 Program

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

An ongoing problem at the Fez Festival.

2009-01-27T23:24:00.000Z

Bab Makina

Since we posted the story on frequently asked questions about the Fez World Sacred Music Festival we have received a number of emails and comments about the bad behaviour of the Moroccan audiences at the Bab Makina. As one comment pointed out "The fact that Moroccans talk loudly, continuously use flash and call each other on their mobiles is disrespectful to both Moroccans and non Moroccans who have saved up their hard-earned $s, £s and €s to come to a SACRED music festival -- and to the artists who try to give heartfelt performances of often very subtle music."

"On one occasion there was a group of Moroccans behind me talking at full volume during exquisite moments of a performance of Sufi music. I politely asked them to be quiet. One man pointed to his skull and said to his companions "Elle est malade". -Audience member

It should be noted that quite often the problem is confined to the Moroccans in the front rows where, as one American celebrity visitor said, "I doubt that some of them even paid for their seats. One wonders why they came if they were not interested in the music." It may be the case that many of those causing offence are employees of one of the major sponsors and are attending with free tickets for social reasons. It probably true that if they had to pay for their seats they might pay a little more attention to the performances.

"I met an Englishman who was in tears because he could not find a place where people were silently appreciating the music. He was not a rich man and told me he had been saving for 3 years to come to the festival. He was totally disillusioned and vowed never to visit Morocco again." - Audience member

Other Americans associated with the festival tell much the same story - of people from the US distraught because of the noise and distractions from the Moroccan audience. It has been suggested that attendance by non-Moroccans is decreasing year on year because of this problem.

Audience at Bab Makina

Suggestions have been made that a separate area should be provided at the Bab Makina for people who want to talk during concerts -- but that mobile phone ring tones should not be tolerated and that this rule should be strictly enforced by the stewards.

Faouzi Skali ( before a performance)

American publicist for the festival, Cindy Byram, and others have tried to get something done about this problem for three years. The problem was written about in annual reports and several people say they have spoken directly about it with Faouzi Skali, then Naima Lahbil and now Fatima Sadiqi. None of these Director Generals appear to have paid any attention to what is a major problem. As one festival patron said "We doubt if anyone ever read our reports - let alone act on their recommendations." Others, including a number of regular visitors from France, say there seems to be a wall of resistance against suggestions made by non-Moroccan members of the festival team.

Another email pointed out an interesting contrast, "What is difficult to understand is why the boorish behaviour of the crowd at Bab Makina is not replicated at other venues. During the festival the concerts at the Batha Museum are met by an appreciative and respectful crowd. It is also true of the entire Sufi Festival where audience behaviour is extremely good. "

The audience at the Sufi festival.

We would be interested in hearing your response to the issue and suggestions as to how the problem can be corrected before this year's festival. Please feel free to post a comment or email us.

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music 2009 - Programme

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Spotlight #1: Fes Sacred Music Festival 2009

2009-01-27T23:21:00.000Z

In the lead up to the Sacred Music Festival, The View from Fez will spotlight the various acts that are expected to appear. Some of these may change as the programme is refined.

Spotlight #1: Ziya Azazi

Sunday May 31. Bab Makina 20h30

1st part: The Whirling Dervishes of Konya (Turkey)

From Eternity to Modernity

2nd part: Ziya Azazi (Turkey)

Icons: Contemporary Dervish Dance

Ziya Azazi promises to be one of the Festival highlights. The last couple of years has seen some creative programming that offers a fusion of styles and cultural diversity. We have previously seen the blending of gospel and Qawwali, and also the Byzantine choir from Athens and the Al Kindi Ensemble from Damascus. With the programming of the whirling dervishes and Ziya Azazi we have a fusion of the old and the modern, of the traditional and the contemporary. The first part of the evening will be the traditional Whirling Dervishes.

With a worldwide reputation, the Whirling Dervishes of Konya have been blessed to live in the city where the great Sufi tradition was born in the 13th century. These musicians, singers and dancers (Semazens) have for about twenty years now represented one of the most interesting aspects of the mystical culture of Turkey. The Sema - the whirling dance - and the Zikr - the hymns sung by the sacred choir - are connected to each other, a spiritual ambience that leads the Dervish enter a mystical universe.

Ziya Azazi was born in 1969 in Antakya, Turkey.

In 1986, he moved to Istanbul where he graduated as a mining engineer. in the years 1989 - 1992 he taught himself gymnastics. between 1990 and 1994 he was engaged in the “state theatre of Istanbul” and made there his first choreographic works.

In 1994, he moved to Vienna where he continued his work in contemporary dance and gymnastics.

In 1999 he won the dance scholarship of the summer dance week (danceweb), including an honourable mention from the European jury as “the most outstanding dancer of the year for Austria”. he received this prize after performing his full evening solo "unterwegs tabula rasa".

Since 1999 he is studying the traditional dance of the sufis (dervish whirlers) and is choreographing his own interpretations of this dance as seen in his solos “work in progress I & II", “dervish in progress” and “`azab”.

Ziya Azazi has performed in many European countries in addition to Brazil, Colombia, Egypt, Korea, Thailand, Tunis, Turkey, the USA and Venezuela.

Al Kindi Dervishes from 2008 Festival
(photo credit; Sandy McCutcheon)

Spotlight #2: Fez Sacred Music Festival 2009

Fez Sacred Music Festival 2009: Ticket collection service.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music 2009 - FAQs

2009-01-27T23:19:00.000Z

With interest in the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music hotting up, The View from Fez thought it would be a good idea to answer some frequently asked questions.

Where can I see the Festival programme?
The Festival's website is www.fesfestival.com. However, the programme can't be found there yet, and it's only in French. You can see the provisional programme in English here or on this blog, here. Keep watching The View from Fez, as there are always articles about the artists and events, before and during the Festival.

Where exactly is the Festival held?
There are several venues. Afternoon concerts (starting at 4.30pm) are held in the courtyard of the Batha Museum, marked as 'Musee Batha' on the map below. Evening concerts (starting at 8.30pm) are held at Bab Makina, the parade ground in front of the Royal Palace, in the far northwest of the medina. This lies west of Bab Boujloud on the map. There are free public concerts in Boujloud Square (Place Boujloud) at 6pm each evening. We don't have the colloquium programme yet, but this usually concentrates on global issues. It runs for four mornings, starting on 30 May and is held at the Batha Museum. There are also events held in the new city.

western side of the Fez medina

In Douh, you can see a small square named Place Sidi Al-Khayat. Here you'll find Dar Tazi, which is the Festival headquarters. Art exhibitions are held here, as well as a cafe litteraire and Sufi Nights that start at 11pm.

Where shall I stay?
Accommodation for the Festival period is still plentiful, but now that the programme has been released, guesthouses will start getting booked up. So the best thing is to make a reservation as soon as you can. See Fez Riads for a wide range of guesthouses and pensions. Bear in mind that it's a good idea to stay as close to the Batha area as possible.

How do I buy Festival tickets?
Contact Naima at the ticketing agency, Objectif Maroc. You can order tickets or a pass from her, and pay by credit card. Naima speaks English as well as French and Moroccan Arabic.
Objectif Maroc
9 Rue du Libye,
Fes Ville Nouvelle
Tel: 00 212 (0) 35 652 816/17/18
Fax: 00 212 (0) 35 624 993 or 35 621 776
Email: objectif_naima@menara.ma

Are there different categories of seats?
There are two categories for the concerts at Bab Makina in the evenings, A and B. The seats are unreserved, but the B seats are further back. It's a huge auditorium and the seating is raked, but the B seats are not as good as the A seats, as is reflected in the pricing. Note that if you buy a pass, you automatically have A seats. It's sometimes possible to buy tickets at the venue prior to the concerts, if it isn't sold out.
There's just one category of seating for the afternoon concerts at the Batha Museum, and it's a much smaller venue. Get there early if you want to grab a front seat.

How do I get my tickets?
You'll need to collect them from Objectif Maroc in the new city. This can be awkward if you're arriving on 29 May, perhaps tired from travelling, or with little time to take a taxi into the new city, find the agency and negotiate the inevitable queues. Taxi drivers invariably don't know where the office is, either.
You can use the ticket collection service provided by Fez Riads. Simply give Fez Riads your invoice number, and your tickets will be delivered to your guesthouse. The cost of this service is Dh300 if you're a Fez Riads client, or Dh400 if you're not. Just click here to find out all about it.

What should I bring?
For the afternoon concerts, a sunhat, suncream, sunglasses, bottled water ... maybe even a fan. For the evenings, bear in mind that it can get windy and chilly and sometimes rains. You might like a cushion for the somewhat uncomfortable seats. Most importantly, you'll need patience and a sense of humour. The Moroccan way of enjoying concerts is to talk through them and answer phone calls. They might also applaud in places where westerners wouldn't. It's simply a different way of appreciating the artists.

Please let us know if you have more questions and we'll do our best to answer them. Enjoy the Festival!

Map from www.fez-riads.com, reproduced by kind permission of PM Editions, publishers of Fès, from Bab to Bab, a useful book of walks in the medina.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Festival of World Sacred Music. 2009.

2009-01-27T23:16:00.001Z

The View from Fez is delighted to announce the provisional programme for this year's Fes Festival of World Sacred Music.

We don't know the theme of this year's festival, we don't have the colloquium programme yet, but we can tell you who will be performing (provisionally, that is). Keep your eyes glued to The View from Fez, because we always have the latest news and during the Festival, will keep you up to date with what's going on.

Fez Riads has a ticket collection service for those visiting Fez for the Festival. Just click here to find out all about it.

FESTIVAL OF WORLD SACRED MUSIC

29 May - 6 June 2009

Provisional Programme

Friday 29 May Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €56; B seats €37)

Marcel Khalifé with the Al Mayadin Orchestra, with Oumeima Al Khalil and Yolla Keryakos (Lebanon/Morocco/Greece)

Tribute to Mahmoud Darwich

José Carreras (Spain)

Sacred Songs

Saturday 30 May Batha Museum 16h30 (€14)

Shantala Shivalingapa (India)

Kuchipudi Dance

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €47; B seats €28)

Marwa Wright (USA)

Gospel

Sunday 31 May

Batha Museum 16h30 (€14)

Mohammad Motamedi (Iran)

Songs: The Art of Radif

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €37; B seats €19)

1st part: The Whirling Dervishes of Konya (Turkey)

From Eternity to Modernity

2nd part: Ziya Azazi (Turkey)

Icons: Contemporary Dervish Dance

Monday 1 June

Batha Museum 16h30 (€9)

Yuval Ron with Najwa Gibran (USA)

Music in the Judeo-Arab Tradition

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €28; B seats €14)

Didier Lockwood (France) with his String Sextet, with Ihsan R'Miki and the Zaman al Wasl Ensemble (Morocco)Strings & Soul a creation by Didier Lockwood (arrangements: R. Regragui, Morocco)

Tuesday 2 June

Batha Museum 16h30 (€9)

Women of Mayotte (Mayotte)

Deba de Hamjago

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €28; B seats €14)

Souad Massi (France/Algeria)

Wednesday 3 June

Batha Museum 16h30 (€9)

I Muvrini (France)

Sacred and popular songs from Corsica

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €28; B seats €14)

Keyvan Chemirani (musical director) with Samira Kadiri, Esperanza Fernandez & Giorgis Xyloyris (Iran/Morocco/Spain/Greece)

Melos - Songs of the Mediterranean

Thursday 4 June Batha Museum 16h30 (€9)

Divna (Serbia)

Orthodox Sacred Songs

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €28; B seats €14)

1st part: Sistine Chapel Choir (Vatican)

A capella songs: the sacred Christian tradition from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance

2nd part: Abed Azrié with the Mediterranean Youth Orchestra & the Choir of the Institut Spérieur de Musique de Damas (France/Syria)

Evangile selon St Jean

Friday 5 June

Batha Museum 16h30 (€9)

Gabriel Garrido and the Elyma Ensemble (Switzerland)

Baroque Music of Monteverdi

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €56; B seats €37)

Sami Yussuf (United Kingdom)

Spiritual Songs of the Arab World

Saturday June 6

Batha Museum 16h30 (€14)

Razbar Ensemle and The Ahl e Haqq Brotherhoods

Mystical songs of Iranian Kurdistan

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €47; B seats €28)

Loreena McKennit (Canada)

The Book of Secrets

Festival Pass in A category seats, including access to all concerts €260

Pass for the Festival and the Colloquium €310

Pass for the Colloquium only €50

Ticket agency:

OBJECTIF MAROC
9 RUE DE LYBIE, FES
TEL : + 212 35 65 28 16/17/18

FAX : + 212 35 62 49 93/ 35 62 17 76
E.MAIL :objectif_naima@menara.ma

See also: An ongoing problem at the Fez Festival.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Latest story links.

2008-12-03T01:16:00.002Z

SoireePrive@FezLounge

Dance Festival in Fez Medina

Fez Medina Gossip #3507

Advertising Moroccan style!!!

Moroccan Kaftans hit the catwalk:

A Thought for the day!

The delicate art of Moroccan Henna

Caring for the blind in Morocco:

The sale of Dar Ba Mohamed Chergui:

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Restoring a house in Fez - reprint

2008-09-19T00:26:00.001Z

We have had a lot of requests to repost one of our older articles on house restoration. So here it is!

Although buying a riad or dar in the Fez Medina may sound like an attractive and even romantic proposition. It is important to remember that this is a World Heritage listed city. That means that any restoration must be carried out in a way that conserves the heritage values. This can be time consuming and difficult. Below you will find some more information on Fez and also some photographs of the kinds of problems facing anyone wishing to start work on a renovation.

Damaged woodwork in a Dar

The Medina was listed by UNESCO in 1981. Founded in the 9th century and home to the oldest university in the world, Fez reached its height in the 13th–14th centuries under the Marinids, when it replaced Marrakesh as the capital of the kingdom. The urban fabric and the principal monuments in the medina – madrasas, fondouks (inn and storehouse, known as a caravanserai in the eastern part of the Arab world), palaces, residences, mosques and fountains - date from this period. Although the political capital of Morocco was transferred to Rabat in 1912, Fez has retained its status as the country's cultural and spiritual centre.

A Dar with extensive structural and zellij damage

Fez has fortified walls, 8 kilometres long. Cities with complex and labyrinth alleys were built in the Mediterranean region to thwart invasions. The ancient city of Fez is a superb example.

Construction began at the end of the 8th century. Mosques were built in the centre, and shops and houses were built as close as possible. The tangled narrow streets make up the world’s most complicated labyrinth city. It is almost impossible for newcomers to find their way.

There are bicycles but there are no cars. People rely on donkeys to carry goods. Women in Muslim society have kept to the tradition of not revealing their faces to men other than their family members. There is a tradition of sitting by a rawashin window. The women used to watch the outside world through its holes.

Courtyard of a Riad. The modern tilework on columns needs replacing

The doors in the medina were built in alternate positions because the alleys are so narrow. Though the alleyways are dark, the houses inside are bright and open. A patio allows fresh air and light to stream in, while the high walls block the sun’s rays. A central aspect of Islamic architecture. The medina’s rooftops include a series of open air spaces leading to a patio below.

A Dar needing a great deal of careful restoration

People living in the Old City of Fez are said to spend their life within the city walls without ever going outside. The spirit and tradition of medieval Islamic society lives on, here, in Fez.

Hand carved plaster can be difficult to repair

LINK: A Moroccan Glossary

LINK: Introduction to Domestic Architecture in the Fez Medina

LINK: THE VIEW FROM FEZ: What is a riad?

LINK: THE VIEW FROM FEZ: Why restore a house in Fes?

LINK: Everything you need to know about conservation/renovation

The central courtyard of a Riad can be a lot of work!

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Keep up to date: You can Twitter The View from Fez

2008-09-17T02:19:00.001Z

For those on the move, The View from Fez now has joined Twitter - so that wherever you are you can get news of new stories being posted. Simply go to Twitter, create your account and then go to http://twitter.com/fesriad and click on the Follow link in the right menu. Simple. Then you can organise for stories to come to your phone or computer. For those who use the Firefox browser you can get a Twitterfox add on that will act as a pop-up for story updates

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Travel Writing about Morocco #22

2008-09-08T00:51:00.000Z

Fez- a place of secret delights.

An article entitled Authentic Morocco by Jonathan Gregson writing for the Financial Times is a much better crafted piece than much of the gushingly Orientalist fare served up by the tabloids. Here is a short extract.

If what you seek in Morocco is sunshine with all the usual international trimmings - designer interiors, capacious swimming pools, a choice of spa treatments and/or golf courses - all served up with just a twist of Old Araby, then follow the herd and head for Marrakech. Massive infusions of mainly Gulf money are transforming its surrounding palmeraie into a Palm Springs-style playground in the sun, while the old town is now studded with estate agents quoting prices in euros rather than dirhams.

If, however, you want to be transported into a completely different world, then go to Fez. It's not just that it is the oldest of Morocco's four imperial cities (the others being Meknes, Rabat and Marrakech) and is this year celebrating its 1,200th anniversary; nor even that the entire Medina has been awarded Unesco World Heritage status. Rather it is because when it comes to such intangibles as dignity, refinement and sheer authenticity, Fez wins hands down.

That may be because Fez el Bali (Old Fez) remains a fully functioning medieval city, a hive of industry whose products - be they filigree work or bridal thrones - are as much in demand among local buyers as foreigners. On weekends, its succession of souks (which on first acquaintance resemble a medieval department store) are crammed with Berber villagers and more sophisticated visitors from Casablanca or Rabat, all seeking wedding presents or hand-crafted furnishings for their own homes.

The pride that Fassis (the people of Fez) take in their craftmanship and industry - many of the skills came with refugees from Andalucia fleeing the Reconquistá - may account for a certain hauteur. It also makes this city feel quite distinct from most other picturesque relics of a bygone age, whose economic survival depends on tourism and whose residual population is there to "service" the visitor.

Some find such un-Disneyfied authenticity frightening. It certainly came as a shock on my first visit some 30 years back. I was no novice, having already been through Marrakech, the High Atlas and the southern oases; but nothing had prepared me for the unique combination of timelessness and big-city intensity I found in Fez. I felt like an Oklahoma boy just arrived in Manhattan, overwhelmed by the crush of humanity and their hurried big-city ways.

For crowded within the city's 13th-century walls are religious scholars and merchants, wool carders and dyers, tanners, silk weavers, slipper makers, woodcarvers, silversmiths and brass-workers, porters, barrow boys, muleteers and donkey-men. These last because the streets and alleyways of Fez el Bali are so steep and so narrow that no motor vehicle can enter.

Everything that is consumed or produced within the city must be carried by man or beast. "There are 10,000 donkeys," I was informed, "and that is if you count only the four-legged ones." So, while walking around the Medina, it is best to keep an ear open for the cries of " Balak! Balak!" that announce the arrival of a donkey-train just in time for pedestrians to take evasive action. Also, to follow the Fassi custom of skirting the sides of thoroughfares (like British motorists, they keep to the left) so as to avoid being bumped by the passing animal's load - which could be anything from a new refrigerator to uncured hides.

While there are a few main arteries through the Old City, such as the Grand Tala ("our own Champs Elysées"), most of the alleyways twist and turn so much that you are certain to get lost sooner or later unless you have a guide. Not that I find this an altogether unpleasant sensation. By wandering aimlessly I discovered a traditional apothecary whose glass cabinets contained all manner of marvellous cures, from powdered herbs and minerals to desiccated lizard. On my last visit I turned down a covered alley to find myself following what seemed to be an endless silken thread, as though on Ariadne's trail. At the end of it was a moustachioed weaver, juggling with two spools, who had seen fit to use this public byway as his workshop.

Here is a link to the full article: Authentic Morocco

Check out our earlier travel writing stories:

Travel Writing Twenty-one
Travel Writing Twenty
Travel Writing Nineteen
Travel Writing Eighteen
Travel Writing Seventeen
Travel writing Sixteen.
Travel Writing Fifteen.
Travel Writing Fourteen.
Travel Writing Thirteen.
Travel Writing Twelve.
Travel Writing Eleven.
Travel Writing Ten.
Travel Writing Nine
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Magic in Morocco

2008-03-21T11:16:00.000Z

Moroccan and foreign prestidigitators (yes, that's magicians) raised the curtain this week on the 5th International Magic festival in Marrakech. The opening performance ran for an hour and a half, with the magicians performing illusions and tricks to the amazement of an audience of young students.

Held between March 20 and 23, the festival, which brings together magicians from Morocco, Spain, Italy, France, Belgium and Austria, seeks to rival other international magic festivals such as those of Las Vegas and Los Angeles in the United States, and Cannes in France.

If you are in Marrakech then check it out at the three sites - The Royal Theatre, the Megarama Cinema Complex and the mystical palace Jamaa El Fna. There will also be a number of free events that will be organized for the benefit of orphans in the region.

The festival is expected to be attended by some 200,000 spectators, with highlights of a tour of neighboring districts of Marrakech, such as Tahannaout, Chichaoua, El Kelaa and Essaouira.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A Place of Pilgrimage for Musicians and Music Lovers

2008-03-13T20:47:00.002Z

The 14th Fes Festival of World Sacred Music takes place this year from 6 to 14 June in the ancient city of Fes (Fez), Morocco. This year celebrating the 1,200th anniversary of its founding, Fes has become a global music destination since the start of the festival following the first Gulf War. The Fes Festival lures both musicians seeking fresh ideas and renewed inspiration as well as international music lovers, many of whom return year after year. VIP guests last year included members of the Irish supergroup U2, composer Osvaldo Golijov, and Queen Rania of Jordan.

Visitors can expect a magical experience, because 2008 looks set to be outstanding – with a spectacular international line-up devised by Artistic Director Gerard Kurdjian. It reflects diverse forms of musical creativity – from grass roots folk music to popular entertainment to the formal European classical traditions. The theme of this year’s festival is Paths to Creation.

The star of the opening night concert in the magnificent setting of the Bab Makina palace courtyard, is the American diva Jessye Norman, who will sing with the Avignon Lyric Orchestra conducted by Rachael Worby. Jessye Norman is one of the undisputed greats of the operatic world. She has sung all the major soprano roles and is especially acclaimed for her performances of Verdi’s Aida.

There will be two dazzling dance performances at the Bab Makina later in the week – flamenco from Spain’s Belen Maya and traditional sacred dances from Indonesia featuring The Panti Pusaka Budaya Ensemble.

2008 also sees the return to the Fes Festival of the Sufi master musician Julian Weiss with the Al-Kindi Ensemble featuring guest a vocalist Sheikh Hamza Shakour from Damascus. In collaboration with The Byzantine Tropos Choir from Athens, they will premiere a Christian and Muslim homage to the Virgin Mary in the form of a Stabat Mater Dolorosa.

More intimate afternoon concerts take place beneath a giant Barbary oak in the Andalusian gardens of the Batha Museum. This year’s program includes Mari Boine from Norway performing Sami sacred songs from the Scandinavian far north and Thanh Huong singing Vietnamese traditional sacred songs. /more2

European classical sacred music comes from Cantus Coln from Germany and Madhup Mughal from India offers a programme of devotional songs from the sub continent.

Late night excitement is generated in the medina’s Dar Tazi gardens where Moroccan Sufi brotherhoods entrance audiences with ecstatic music into the wee small hours. And in the Place Boujloud the people of Fes gather at dusk for the Festival in the City series of free concerts.

This year the Fes Rencontre forum brings academics, philosophers, politicians and priests together to examine the role of the sacred in modern life. Mohammed Sarwar, the UK’s first Muslim MP, will be among the speakers.

Last year U2 spent time in Fes during the festival, writing and rehearsing their new album, set to be released this October. They have since spoken passionately about the transformational experience they discovered at the festival. “Fes is a holy place for musicians “says Bono, humanitarian activist and singer with the group, “we came to pay tribute and to learn. We are on a pilgrimage”.

Bono’s perspective is shared by Sir Nicholas Pearson, Chairman of The Temenos Academy: “Fes and its sacred music festival has a unique opportunity to become the place where Islam meets the West in open and fair-minded dialogue,” he says. “It is for this reason I believe Fes should become a place of pilgrimage for people of goodwill from all religions. We should come to Fes to resolve our differences and celebrate our common humanity. “

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival highlights #1

2008-03-13T20:38:00.000Z

Between now and the opening of the Fes Sacred Music Festival 2008 we will bring you background information on some of the stand-out performers. Top of the list is Mari Boine - whose voice has to be heard to be believed. She is performing Sunday 8 June at the Batha Museum 16:30 in a program called Sacred Songs of Scandinavian Far North.

Mari Boine Persen is a Norwegian Sami musician known for having added jazz and rock to the yoiks of her native people. Boine (born 8 November 1956 in Finnmark, Norway) grew up amid the Laestadian Christian movement as well as amidst discrimination against her people. She was asked to perform at the 1994 Winter Olympics in Lillehammer, but refused because she perceived the invitation as an attempt to bring a token minority to the ceremonies. Gula Gula - Hear the voice of the tribe's Mother 1989, (Real World) was her breakthrough release, and she continued to record popular albums throughout the 1990s.

Mari Boine's music is dominated by her strong and urgent voice, plus a few carefully selected instruments from people all over the world, notably the native South Americans, chosen in part due to their history of even harsher colonization. Most distinctive is her drum. She uses an African drum, but the combination of drum and voice goes back to ancient Sami culture and pre-Christian shamanism.

"The colonizers brought Christianity and told the Sami they had to forget their primitive religion - and music was part of that religion. A lot of people of my parent's generation don't accept the music, they say it's devil's music and what you sing when you're drunk - the colonizers also brought alcohol. When I started to use a drum some people got worried and said, 'Is she a Shaman?' So I decided I couldn't use a Sami drum."

"I think your voice is a mirror of your soul and how you feel inside. When I began I was singing pop songs and ballads and didn't sing from the heart. Over the last ten years I've been fighting this feeling of being inferior to Norwegian or western people and my voice got stronger as I decided I wouldn't let anyone oppress me and that I have a value as Sami. Western culture makes a distance between you and your body or heart. In Sami culture you think of everything as a whole."

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Sacred Music Festival Ticket collection service.

2008-03-13T20:35:00.000Z

One of the most annoying things about arriving in Fez for the Sacred Music Festival is having the hassle of finding and getting to where you can pick up your tickets. Unfortunately even the taxi drivers experience problems finding the location of the ticket office and if you have just been travelling from overseas the last thing you probably need is to go hunting around Fez for your tickets. Thankfully after the problems last year a solution has been found in the form of the Fes Festival Ticket Collection Service. Here is what they can do to make life easier

For those attending the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music (6-14 June 2008), we offer a ticket collection service. Once you've ordered and paid for your tickets through the ticketing agency, Objectif Maroc, send us your invoice number and we will collect your tickets and deliver them to your guesthouse in time for your arrival. The charge is Dh300 (approximately 27 Euros) per set of tickets per person or group.

To find out more about this great service visit FES FESTIVAL TICKET COLLECTION

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival of Sacred Music 2008

2008-03-13T20:32:00.001Z

The 14th annual Fes Festival of World Sacred Music will take place between 6 to 14 June 2008. The latest updated program is below.

Friday 6 June Opening Night

Bab Makina 20:30

Jessye Norman (USA), with the Regional Lyric Orchestra Avignon Provence (France). Conducting: Rachael Worby (USA)

Saturday 7 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Ghada Shbéïr (Lebanon) Songs of the Eastern Christian Churches

Bab Makina 20:30

Night of Sacred African American and Sufi Songs Night

Spiritual/Hymns/Qawwali/Gospel

Faiz Ali Faiz (Pakistan) ensemble with and Bernice Johnson Reagon and the Sacred Sound Ensemble (USA)

Sunday 8 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Mari Boine (Norway) Sacred Songs of Scandinavian Far North

Bab Makina 20:30

Al Kindi ensemble with Sheikh Hamza Shakour, the Munshid of the Great Umayyad Mosque and the Choir of Greece - Dir. JJ Weiss (Syria/Greece/France)

Stabat Mater Dolorosa - Christian and Muslim Homage to Mary

Monday 9 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Thanh Huong (Vietnam) Traditional and sacred songs

Bab Makina 20:30

Belen Maya Company (Spain) Dibujo Flamenco dance

Tuesday 10 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Tartit Women's Ensemble (Mali) Folk and sacred songs of the Tuareg

Bab Makina 20:30

Panti Pusaka Budaya Ensemble Sacred Traditional Dances of Bali / Indonesia

Wednesday 11 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Ysaÿe Quartet (France) The Seven Last Words of Christ (J. Haydn) Text: Michel Serres – Narrator: Michael Lonsdale

Thursday 12 June

Batha Museum 16:30

The Roza Enflorese (Belgium) Sephardic sacred and traditional songs

Bab Makina 20:30

Abdelwahab Doukali (Morocco)

Friday 13 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Cantus Colln (Germany) Around JS Bach/Spiritual Paths (Buxtehude - J. Rosenmüller - JS Bach) Director: Konrad Junghanel

Bab Makina 20:30

Mohamed Abdou (Saudi Arabia)

Saturday 14 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Madhup Mudghal (India) Bakhti devotional songs

Bab Makina 20:30

Ismael Lô (Senegal) with the Brotherhood Hamadcha of Fez (Morocco) From Dakar to Fez: from heart to soul

ADDITIONAL EVENTS

Photographic Exhibition: The Earthen Mosques of Mali – Christian Schuytiser
Film: Latcho Drom by Tony Gatliff (on gypsies from Rajasthan to Andalusia – premiered at the Cannes Festival)

A reminder: A ticket collection service is suggested if you are arriving from outside Morocco. Find out here: Ticket Collection Service

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Sacred Music Festival 2008 (6 -14 June)

2007-11-12T00:43:00.001Z

Thanks to Lumen, here is the provisional programme in English

Friday 6 June
Jessye Norman (USA) with the Orchestre Lyrique Régional Avignon, Provence (France), directed by Racael Worby

Saturday 7 June morning
Songs of the Christian Churches of the East
Ghada Shbéïr (Lebanon) (BBC World Music Award 2007)

Saturday 7 June evening
Night of Sacred Afro-American and Sufi Songs Spirituals/Hymns/Qawwali/Gospel (Pakistan/USA)
Faiz Ali Faiz Ensemble and Bernice Johnson Reagon and the Sacred Sound Ensemble

Sunday 8 June morning
Sacred Songs of the Lapps from Northern Scandinavia
Mari Boine (Norway)

Sunday 8 June evening
Peace Songs
Joan Baez (USA) (to be confirmed)

Monday 9 June morning
Traditional Sacred Songs
Huong Thanh (Vietnam)

Monday 9 June evening (in the Merenides Quarry)
Dibujos Flamenco Dance Creation
Belen Maya (Spain)

Tuesday 10 June morning
Jesus Meine Freunde (JS Bach)
Ensemble Cantus Cölln (Germany)

Tuesday 10 June evening (in the Merinides Quarry)
Traditional Sacred Dance from Bali
I Made Djimat Ensemble (Indonesia)

Wednesday 11 June morning
The Seven Last Words of Christ (J Haydn)
Quatuor Ysaÿe with soloist Michel Serres (France)

Thursday 12 June morning
Traditional Sacred Sephardic songs
La Rosa Enflorese (Belgium)

Thursday 12 June evening
Evening of Moroccan music (to be confirmed)

Friday 13 June morning
Popular Sacred Songs of the Tuaregs
Ensemble des Femmes Tartit (Mali)

Friday 13 June evening
Mohamed Abdou (Saudi Arabia)

Saturday 14 June morning
Hindu Devotional Songs in the Tradition of Northern India
Madhup Mudghal (India) (to be confirmed)

Saturday 14 June evening
From Dakar to Fez: from Heart to Soul
Ismael Lô (Senegal) with the Tijaniya Sufi Brotherhood or the Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood of Fez (Morocco)

ADDITIONAL EVENTS

Photographic Exhibition: The Earthen Mosques of Mali – Christian Schuytiser

Film: Latcho Drom by Tony Gatliff (on gypsies from Rajasthan to Andalusia – premiered at the Cannes Festival)

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan recipes from a Moroccan kitchen!

2007-09-01T14:04:00.000Z

A Moroccan Kitchen is a new blog by two Moroccan women who are learning English and happy share the secrets of Moroccan cooking. You can post a comment asking for recipes! Find Sabah and Samira here: A Moroccan Kitchen

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez restaurants - Zen Garden

2007-05-13T09:38:00.000Z

Once in a while even the most dedicated Medina dweller craves a change and heads into the Ville Nouvelle for a meal. According to our foodie friends the choice is usually between Zagora, Vesuvio, The Majestic, Trois Source and Zen Garden.

Here at The View from Fez we have always favoured Trois Source for the fish and the ambiance especially as they now run a free taxi service to and from the restaurant. Recently however we have been straying to to the relatively new Zen Garden.

Our first encounter was a delightful lunch of what is probably the best pizza on offer in Fez. We tested the vegetarian - superb with a wide range of fresh vegetables and good cheese - and the Zen Garden Pizza which was equally good. The souffle with Grand Marnier was excellent.

Yesterday the pizza craving struck and we returned only to find that the pizza oven was being repaired. So, we tried the fish. The dorade was beautifully cooked, simply presented and with a small portion of vegetables cooked to perfection.

The wine list is fine, the service quick and efficient and there is a small but pleasant outdoor area which is great for nighttimes in summer.

Watching strangers eat can be fascinating!

CONTACT DETAILS

26 Avenue Omar Ibnou Khattab
Email: zengardenfes@yahoo.fr;
Phone 035 932 929

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Meknes - the essentials.

2007-05-04T15:09:00.001Z

Racing through the streets of Meknes in a caleche

While there is a friendly bit of banter from time to time comparing Fez and Meknes, nobody takes it too seriously because it is not a comparison of equals. Meknes is smaller, there is less for a visitor to do and the tourist industry is not nearly as well organised as Fez.

Recently a major travel organisation sent a small team to check out Meknes and The View From Fez had the pleasure of tagging along. What we discovered was that it is certainly worth a visit.

Place el-Hedim

First of all, trying to get a map of Meknes from the tourist authorities in the major tourist locations was impossible. "Could we have a list of riads, hotels, restaurants?". Yes, but not to take away. They had one copy which was both limited and of little use. Eventually we tried in the regional tourist office in the new city - and there they let us keep the lists.

So what do tourists do in Meknes? They visit the Place el-Hedim and the Bab el Mansour which is one of the most impressive gates in Morocco. After a stroll through the covered market at the side of the el-Hedim square where the stallholders displays are snapped by every camera, it is usually straight back on the bus and off to the Heri es-Souani.

I spoke to the guide at the Dar Jamai museum at the northern end of the Place el-Hedim, who said that sadly, despite the fact that the is an interesting building with some fine exhibits and a beautiful Andalucian style garden, many tourists don't visit, preferring to sit in the Place el-Hedim and have coffee or orange juice.

On a two hour amble around the Medina we took in the major sites that are certainly worth a visit.

The covered market.

The market is off the Place el-Hedim and is famous for the displays of spices, fruit and vegetables. For those with a sweet-tooth, this place is a paradise of confectionery. There is also a meat and fish section. However, like many souqs in Morocco, the sale of chameleons and other small animals and reptiles is disturbing. While the use of chameleons in traditional medicine is part of the fabric of Moroccan culture, the conditions in which they are kept are both deplorable and ignorant. We saw dozens of chameleons in distressed conditions, dehydrated and without food.

Olives & preserved lemons - beautifully displayed.

Caged hedgehog

The downside - caged tortoise and chameleons.

Dar Jamai Museum.

Entry to the museum is the standard ten dirhams per person. Normally photography is forbidden, but we were given permission to take photographs without using flash. The ceramics and embroidered fabrics were superb, but the star of the show is the building itself with a fabulous domed sanctuary (koubba) and beautiful garden.

The museum entrance off Place el-Hedim

The magnificent koubba

Iraqi glass windows

The Andalusian garden

Medersa Bou Inania

This fine example of Merenid architecture (built in 1358) is certainly not as well maintained or as lavish as the one in Fez, but is still worth a visit. Do make certain that the guardian gives you a ticket and does not simply pocket the ten dirham entrance charge.

The central courtyard is superb as is the zellij and Arabic ceramic script on some of the walls. Make sure you find the stairs and make your way to the roof for the spectacular view

The two different scripts in ceramic

One view from the terrace

Heri es-Souani

Just south of the now restored Agdal Basin are the famous granaries - possibly the most impressive monument in Meknes. This vast storehouse was used to store the grain for feeding some 12,000 horses in the stables of Moulay Ismail. Film buffs will recognise the location from films such as The Last Temptation of Christ. While the location is on every tourist's agenda, our Meknes taxi driver took about forty-five minutes to find it.

Vast storerooms

One of the ancient grinding wheels

The storerooms go on ... and on..

Out and about

Setting out in search of lunch we headed to the ville nouvelle and went to the Pizzeria Le Four - not Pizza as we know it, but if you want a quiet place with good wine and ok salads it will do.

In the evening we found a place called La Casa. The menu looked good, but when ordering the smoked trout we were told - not available. This was repeated with other offerings until we settled on prawns, calamari and some white fleshed fish. All fresh and excellent.

Returning for a little shopping in the souqs we soon discovered that there is not as much variety although prices were generally the same or slightly lower and accompanied by slightly less hassling than is the case in Fez.

The mannequins rival those in Fez!

Strictly for tourists.

For those with some time on their hands and want to chill out a little, Meknes is a good place for a couple of days and of course handy to Volubilis and and the hill town of Moulay Idriss.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Buying antiques in the Fez Medina

2007-04-20T08:46:00.000Z

The other day The View From Fez had a visitor turn up at Riad Zany, asking if we would like to come and inspect a house full of antiques. This was a follow-up from our story about buying antiques in Fez. We were intrigued and, despite having no money for such things and little expertise - we decided to investigate.

After a convoluted trip through the winding back streets of the Ville Nouvelle, we ended up at a nondescript apartment, climbed the stairs and found ourselves in a room filled with antiques.

The owner was not willing to let us make detailed photographs of the individual items but just to give you a rough indication, we found 9 banquettes with carved bases and pure wool covers and cushions, a matching circular table, 11 standing clocks, two grandfather clocks, 6 pairs of ornate candlesticks, 4 mirrors, 5 chandeliers (in good condition) a silver samovar, an extraordinary lion-head door knocker, trays, lamps, wall sconces, a hat stand, 2 incense burners and a very unusual carved marble pillar. There was much much more.

The grandfather clock which was purchased

The style of the antiques is varied but probably centred around the 1930s - and the prices being asked vary from the expensive to the reasonable end of the scale. We mentioned the clocks to a friend who was delighted by the style and quality and purchased the one pictured above. The View from Fez couldn't restrain ourselves and bought an delicate Iranian water jug and basin (below).

The owner of the antiques does not want his details published but we would be happy to pass on information to anyone genuinely interested. Email: fes.riad@gmail.com

Iranian hand-washing jug and basin (click on image to enlarge)

See also: Buying antiques in Fez

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A Sufi night in Fez

2007-03-27T23:22:00.000Z

Earlier we published the Sufi Night in five parts - here is the complete night in chronological order

The activity started at ten in the morning for an event that doesn't begin until eight at night. All day things were being delivered, food, tables, incense burners and then a surprise - at three in the afternoon several of the musician who had to travel from out in the countryside, arrived early and took up residence in the courtyard.

Carpets were spread out, chairs arranged, tables set up and a bottomless lake of mint tea was served.

Meanwhile in the kitchen a mountain of couscous was being prepared.

Inside the salon, the phone kept ringing with people asking if we could fit them in and on the email the news that some people could not attend because of the strike on Alitalia airlines. Others, fresh in from the USA, phoned to say they had arrived.

Still the numbers expected to attend were increasing and so more food and plates were ordered.

Soon it begins. The rain that was predicted has thankfully stayed away and so it will be a good night, inshallah!

The Hamadcha Brotherhood Sufi night at Riad Zany was attended by around fifty invited guests - which meant a lot of preparations. A team of workers spent the day preparing a mountain of coucscous, salads, deserts and tagines.

Mint was collected for tea, incense was specially selected and tables and chairs laid out. Special orange blossom water dispensers were filled ready to sprinkle on arriving guests.

In the kitchen, Thami, from Thami's Restaurant, led the cooking preparations from ten in the morning.

Plates of nuts, cakes and dates were set out an a special bowl of milk set aside for the welcoming ceremony.

At around 8 pm the first of the guests started to arrive in the courtyard... The Hamadcha are very much respected by the local people and in the streets outside there were many people gathering to see the Brotherhood or at least hear the music.

Just after 9pm the musicians had been fed and they headed out to assemble in the small square at the end of our derb (street). Many of our neighbours had been invited but scores of others hung off trees, perched on shoulders and craned necks to get a glimpse of the proceedings.

Then the drumming started on the hourglass shaped gwal, followed by chanting and blasts from the small but powerful trumpet like instruments (ghita) carried by two of the twelve musicians.

One of the gwal players

In one departure from the usual custom the Hamadcha had invited Fred Calmes from Riad Zany to perform with them and as he donned the red cloak and accepted a drum (gwal) his face was a picture of concentration.

The procession - musicians and guests - made there way slowly up the derb to Riad Zany, proceeded by the ceremonial welcoming bowl of milk. Inside, even more guests were arriving...

By ten pm the welcoming chants and prayers had been performed and it was time to get into the various stages of the hadra (ecstatic dance). The musicians stod in a line and urged on by their leader (muqaddim) began to sway and then bob up and down as they chanted. A Hamadcha ceremony has some parts which are described as cold hadra - others as hot hadra all of which are intended to lead the performers and others who decide to dance into a state of altered consciousness or trance.

The endless energy of the musicians is infectious as while at first it was mainly Moroccans who got to their feet, during the first hot hadra section almost all the foreign guests joined in. The special incense was put on a burner placed in front of the musicians.

Because of the large number of people in the courtyard, dancing space was at a premium, but later, when everyone became involved, the space was fine.

At around eleven, a few of the older people, plus some jet-lagged guests who had flown in, departed during a break - which was probably just as well, as the next section of hot hadra was to prove very exciting. At this stage the guests, which to our surprise included all of Fez's Purple Circle, now numbered about forty - with local Moroccans outnumbering the expats. And it was the local Moroccans who were going to lead the way in the hot hadra...

Hot Hadra.

By half past eleven, the crowd had climbed to their feet and started swaying to the music. The effect of the music on European and Moroccan alike is difficult to describe and even more difficult to photograph. It really is a case of "you had to be there".

Bopping Blogger?

Soon the dancers included a special guest - a fellow blogger - from the Morocco Report, who had made the journey to Fez with a Canadian friend. It was a pleasure to have them attend.

The View from Canada?

As I mentioned, photography of hadra dancing is difficult - worse because of the extreme low light. There is also a haze of incense in the air and the fact that the music itself seems to take hold of you..

However, I have included a number of photographs below which I hope at least convey the feeling of what took place. The word "intense" springs to mind! There are two types of trance state recognised by the Hamadcha.The first is called hal and seems to be a non-violent trance, usually attributed to the Brotherhood's saint Sidi 'Ali ben Hamdush. The second is jidba, which is much more frenetic and which often occurs as an abrupt and dramatic transition from the hal. This state is often attributed to the jinniyya (female djinn) 'Aisha Qandisha.

Dancing in the hal and cloud of incense

The dancer in white becomes a blur during hal

One of the surprises was the reaction of Moroccans to the dancers who go into jidba. Very aware of what is happening, they quietly move into position around the dancer and restrain any violent movements and protect them from falling when overwhelmed by the trance. In the series of photographs below, a young woman is relatively easy to photograph at first - her movements being slower in the hal - but then as she enters jidba her dancing becomes wilder, her brother and one woman and then another move to support her before (in the final shot) she begins to collapse to the ground. You can click on the photographs to see a larger version.

After the dancer collapsed, she was sat down, given water and after about twenty minutes made a full recovery, but like most of the dancers, had no recollection of what had happened.

Meanwhile on the other side of the courtyard, four women begin to go into trance at the same time. They had moved quietly and gracefully, almost floating, through the crowd to be right in front of the musicians where there the transition from hal to jidba was rapid and dramatic, with one woman repeatedly thrashing her head against the ground. All the women came out of the jidba without any injury and within half an hour were sitting quietly with smiles on their faces - but again, no memory of what had taken place.

At this point taking photographs was too difficult as I had an overwhelming urge to dance...

The final thirty minutes or so are very much of a gentle wind down. Those who have gone into a trance have been revived, the musicians start a final section of the hadra - and then the atmosphere changed from the electricity charged previous hour to something more mellow and restful. The Musicians dance barefoot on the cold tiles, stamping out a hypnotic beat, but the urge now is to rest, not to dance.

Then it is over - the guests discover that a series of four different deserts have been served and are suddenly awake and hungry - that is except for some of those who have been working all day to make the marvelous evening happen.

OUR THANKS

Riad Zany would like to thank the following: Yousef for his very generous gift of the Hamadcha ceremony. The Hamadcha Brotherhood who gave us more than just a perfomance. Mouaniss Mohammed for being such a great organiser and also repeatedly telling me that it would not rain despite the forecast ( he was right ), Sanaa for cooking fabulous deserts as always, Thami for the energy friendship and fine food - a true brother. Karima for making sure the logistics and protocol problems were sorted and for hurrying back from Rabat to meet and greet the Purple Circle members. The evening was not just for Riad Zany but also especially for Suzanna who could not attend, but without whom Riad Zany would be a dream rather than a reality.

And finally our fine Fassi friends and the expat community (French and English speaking) who turned out in such numbers to give us the critical mass needed for the event to really take off. Thank you.

Photo credit: All photographs Sandy McCutcheon

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Sufi Festival in Fez

2007-03-22T12:59:00.000Z

Fez Festival of the Sufi Culture April 27 – May 2.

The Programme

Friday 27 April
20:30 p.m. Artistic evening : Samaa (Spiritual Chants) of the East and the West.
First part : Mohammed Bajeddoub (Morocco)
Second part : Hassan Haffar (Syria)

Saturday 28 April
9:00 - 10:00 a.m. Opening
10:00 - 12:00 p.m. Lectures : Sufism and Human Development.
16: 00 - 18:00 p.m. Workshop : Sufism , Art and Poetry.
21:00 p.m. A Samaa evening with the Tijania Tariqa.

Sunday 29 April
9:00 - 12:00 p.m. Lectures : Sufism and Cultural Diversity.
16:00 - 18:00 p.m. Workshop : Sufism , Art and Poetry.
18 :30 – 20 :30 p.m. First part : Mohammed Bajeddoub (Morocco)
Second part : Hassan Haffar (Syria)
21:00 p.m. A Sama evening with Qadiriya_Boutchichiya Tariqa.

Monday 30 April
9:00 - 12:00 p.m. Lectures : Sufism and Human Rights.
16:00 - 18:00 p.m. Workshop : Sufism, Art and Poetry.
21:00 p.m. A Samaa evening with Charqaouia Tariqa

Tuesday 1 May
16:00 - 18:00 p.m. Workshop : Sufism, Art and Poetry .
21:00 p.m. A Samaa evening with Ouazzaniya Tariqa.

Wednesday 2 May
9:00 - 12 :00 p.m. Lectures : Sufism and the History of Morocco.
16:00 - 18:00 p.m. Synthesis of Lectures.
18:30-20:30 p.m. First part : Spiritual Chants with Ahl Fez .
Second part : Abd Al Malik’s Concert of Sufi Chants (Slam).

Artists’ biographies

Abd Al Malik
Born in Paris on the 14th of March 1975, this singer, originally from Congo, lived for a short time in Brazzaville as a young boy. He returned to France in 1981 and grew up in Strasbourg. When his parents divorced, he started first by mixing up with gangs and later on by getting involved with religious extremist groups. He went on to founding the N.A.P band, then discovered Sufism and became a peace advocate. He released his first solo album, “Le Face à face des cœurs” in 2004 and the second, “Gibraltar”, two years later.

Hassan Haffar
The Syrian-born Haffar is a muezzin in Aleppo. He is a craftsman by trade, a storyteller and a poet. He sings Sufi poems such as : « Le Sceau des Prophètes, Mélodies du Paradis », and « Jardin d’Eden » . His first album, released in 1995, was “Hassan Haffar et les Munsheds d’Alep”. Because of his authenticity, he is very much appreciated in the Arab world and in France. Haffar’s presence in this Festival is really an event as he very seldom gives public appearances. His latest album is named: “ Chants d’Éxtase”.

Mohamed Ba Jeddoub
Born in 1945 in Safi, Morocco, Mohamed Ba Jeddoub, at an early age, showed a great interest for traditional music, especially for Arabic Andalusian music and religious chants. He began his apprenticeship in the Zawiya. In 1961, he studied under the late great master Sidi Kadiri in Sale and then under the master Mohamed Tbayek in Marrakech. In 1963, he was introduced to Haj Driss Benjelloun, president of the Association des Amis de la Musique Andalouse in Morocco, who introduced him, in 1968 to the master Haj Abdekrim Raïs, the Labrihi Orchestra conductor. These great masters of Andalusian music helped him develop his talent as a singer, especially in the Maoual style.

Contact
Tél. : 00 212 35 65 39 53
Fax : 00 212 35 65 39 52
Email : contact@par-chemins.org
www.par-chemins.org

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The Fez bar report - part one.

2007-03-22T12:50:00.000Z

A while ago we reported on the sleazy side of Tangier with a report: Beyond the beaded curtain. Now we have turned our attention to Fez and in particular the wild nightlife in the Ville Nouvelle. Two of our reporters went undercover to seek out the highs and lows - all in the name of research of course. You will find their report here:
The Bars of Fez

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan traveller's tale. #361

2007-03-11T14:10:00.000Z

The View from Fez has been running a collection of stories on travel writing about Morocco - as an example, here is the latest. Links to the complete collection follows the story.

Adam Karlin writes for the Arizona Star and for Lonely Planet, so you would imagine that few travel experiences would really blow him away - maybe, until while in Morocco on a recent trip. He and his girlfriend were staying in the little village of Tamnougalt, at the Chez Yacob hotel. But let him pick up the story...

We had tagine and couscous for dinner (in Morocco, you always have tagine and couscous for dinner), and as night fell, I heard drums pounding off the narrow village streets. The noise came from just outside our hotel: a circle of men and village boys, some black, some Arab, some with roots as Jewish as pastrami on rye. They motioned us over, and we slurped tea while they joked in the muddy Moroccan pidgin of French, Berber and Arabic (my little French, for the record, served me very well in Morocco). A kid squatted next to me.
"Big movie star," a man said, smiling.
I smiled back, figuring they were joking.
"Brad Pitt," he said. Other boys rolled their eyes, like they'd heard this story a thousand times. Then one of the hotel managers spoke in fluent English.
"No, really!" he exclaimed. "He has just been in a movie with Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett. 'Babel'!" The boy nodded excitedly, and now his friends followed suit, eager to claim some shared fame.
At the time, I dismissed the story as hyperbole. About a month later, though, while watching a DVD of "Babel," my jaw dropped as Boubker Ait El Caid — the boy in the drum circle — shot Cate Blanchett in the shoulder and basically upstaged a cast of A-listers with his impassioned admission of guilt.
But on my birthday, he and the hotel manager asked me to trade an American tune for their Berber ones. I hummed a few bars but got cut off.
"Is that Bryan Adams?"
"No."
"We like Bryan Adams."
Technically, Adams is Canadian, but they were already halfway into "Summer of '69." That was how I turned 26: watching the stars enflame the African sky in a mud castle, surrounded by friendly Moroccans singing Western pop songs. El Caid was there, but there was little babble that night; our inability to speak each other's languages warmed a shared affection, the connection that grows when two travelers' curiosity and one village's hospitality come face to face.

Earlier Travel Writing stories:

Travel Writing Fifteen.
Travel Writing Fourteen.
Travel Writing Thirteen.
Travel Writing Twelve.
Travel Writing Eleven.
Travel Writing Ten.
Travel Writing Nine
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fodor's New Guide to Fez & Marrakech

2007-02-14T22:07:00.001Z

While many people pack a copy of Lonely Planet, one of the other guides worth looking at comes from the famous Fodor imprint. While there is a wealth of information in their new edition about Morocco in general and Fez in particular, they also have a quick version on the net. Here is a sample from their weblog.

Fez is one of the world's best-preserved medieval cities, and provides Morocco's most challenging and rewarding urban experience. However, for first-timers it can be a confusing place, so we've pulled together some tips on getting around and where to stay, plus other helpful information.

Spend More Than One Day

In their rush to see as much of Morocco as possible, many visitors rush through Fez, spending only one night. This is a mistake, as Fez is not only the root of Moroccan history, tradition, and culture, but becomes more enjoyable the longer you stay. On your first day, the time-capsule medievalism may overwhelm you with its intensity. It'll take another full day of losing yourself in the labyrinth of anonymous derbs (tiny alleyways) to gain the confidence to find the treasures that lie just off the main auto-accessible road.

Stay in a Riad

The reason to come to Fez is to explore the medina, the labyrinthine old section of every Moroccan town. There's no better way to do it than to stay in a riad (a traditional medina house-hotel built around a courtyard). Fez has riad hotels for all budgets and in all styles. Each bedroom usually has an en-suite bath and sitting area, but keep in mind that televisions are rarely found in bedrooms. You can book a room, as you would at a regular hotel, or rent an entire riad and live like pashas of old. Check out some listings at agencies like Marrakech Medina and Terre Maroc. A room in a riad can cost anywhere from 600 dirhams a night (about $60) in a simple place to 5,000 dirhams a night for a sumptuous suite. Make sure to double and triple check your reservations, as it's not uncommon to arrive and be told that your three-room reservation has been changed to two-rooms. Also, call your hotel upon arrival to arrange a pick-up, as riads are often hidden down tiny streets and might be hard to find while dragging your luggage.

Be Sweet to Your Feet

You'll be doing a lot of walking. Wear comfortable, closed-up shoes, especially if you're visiting the tanneries, as there are often mysterious puddles or donkey droppings. When your legs and brain need a break, duck into one of the myriad havens behind the unremarkable medina doors. For example, if all you need is a quick mint tea break, sit at the delightful café on the roof of the Musée Nejjarine, at Place Nejjarine near the center of town. Otherwise, treat yourself to a decadent lunch at Palais Mnebhi, located on Souikt Ben Safi, just steps away from the medina's major sights. The interior is magnificent, and the food -- a multi-course bonanza of chicken tagines, couscous, Moroccan salads and sweet pastries -- is outstanding.

Get a Guide

You can get by without a guide in most parts of Morocco, but a guide on your first day in Fez is indispensable. Although getting lost and finding your way out of the maze of streets is a must-do experience, you still need to see the sights, and there's almost no hope of finding them on your first day alone. Your hotel can arrange to have a guide pick you up from your hotel, or you can hire one through the tourist office (guides are about $35, or 350 dirhams for 7 hours). You can arrange guided walking tours for as long or as short a period as you wish. Expect to pay around 150 dirhams for a long afternoon tour.

To Market to Market...

Fez is basically one enormous, overwhelming market. Learning the rules of the game will keep you from getting fleeced, and help you come away with souvenirs you actually like. First, don't buy anything on your first day; instead, compare prices in different shops and get an idea of what's out there. Secondly, bargaining is everything, and confidence is key. Even if you have no idea what you're doing, knock off about half the quoted price of any object you want and pretend to leave if they don't budge.

The Ensemble Artisanale, on Rue Alla Ben Abdellah, a short taxi-ride away in the Ville Nouvelle, is a great shopping option. It's a government-run cooperative, so prices are set according to actual guidelines (you still have to bargain a bit, though). Each of the major crafts -- pottery, ironwork, woodwork, rugmaking -- is represented by a single workshop with specially trained craftsmen. The lanterns made by Haddadi Ali are especially recommended, as they're of much higher quality than most lanterns you'll find in the medina. Many merchants will wrap items well and ship them home. (You can also arrange for shipping through the DHL office on Avenue des F.A.R. However, it's a good idea to pack an empty bag in your luggage for items you'll buy on the trip.)

Dress

"What should I wear?" is one of the most-often asked questions by first-timers to Fez. Fez is probably where you'll see most locals in djellabahs (the traditional long dress worn by men and women), so visitors should dress as conservatively as possible while still being comfortable. Since so many visitors to Morocco are French, the fashion bar is set pretty high. Temperatures are in the 80s for much of the year. However, men should always wear long pants (shorts are strongly frowned upon in Morocco, except at the beach). Women in tank tops can get a lot of stares, so you'll probably feel less conspicuous in a top that has at least short sleeves.

Other Tips

Look around when you hear the word "Balek!" This is roughly Arabic for "Watch out!" Donkeys fill the entire width of the street, and you'll often have to press yourself against a wall to make way for the beasts of burden or for men carrying goods on wheelbarrows.

Make sure you have plenty of small change. Tipping people five or 10 dirhams is expected for almost every small service rendered, from showing you around the tanneries to providing directions.

Drink lots of water. The city streets can get hot and close during the afternoon. When buying bottled water on the street, check that the seals on the lid have not been opened. Sometimes people fill bottles with tap water. The safest thing to do is to drink bubbly water, which can't be faked. Sidi Ali is a good local brand, and you can get a small bottle for about 5 dirhams.

Try Royal Air Maroc. There are no direct flights to Fez from the U.S. The easiest way to get there from the U.S. is to take the nightly Royal Air Maroc flight from JFK to Casablanca and get the short connecting flight to Fez. The flight usually costs between $650 and $900, depending on the season. Spring is high season in Morocco, but fall is also a great time to visit, provided you avoid Ramadan, when the entire population fasts during daylight hours.

Here is another example of their hit list.

Destination Morocco: Fez and Marrakesh

Fez and Marrakesh continue to be Morocco's most popular tourist destinations, and with good reason. Fez is the Arab capital of Morocco, its center of learning and culture, and home to the oldest university in the Western world. Marrakesh, the dreamy burg at the base of the High Atlas Mountains, is perhaps more sensual than Fez, but history and archaeology buffs will find it no less compelling. One could easily spend a month -- or several -- in either city, but if time is limited, here's a quick-hits tour of both cities.

Fez

Bab Boujeloud
This gate is 1,000 years younger than the rest of the medina, but it's generally considered the city's most beautiful point of entry.

Andalusian Mosque
One of Fez's most imposing structures, the mosque was erected in AD 859. The detailed carvings in the eaves are the main attraction.

Attarin Medersa
This is arguably the loveliest medersa in Fez, famous for its graceful proportions and elegant, geometrical carved-cedar ornamentation as well as its excellent state of preservation.

Bou Inania Medersa
First organized in the 10th century, the university is considered by many to be the Western world's first center of higher education, predating Oxford, La Sorbonne, and Bologna.

Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts
The museum displays Morocco's various native woods, 18th- and 19th-century woodworking tools, and a series of antique wooden doors and pieces of furniture.

Kairaouine Mosque
One look through the doorway will give you an idea of the immensity of this place. It was Morocco's largest mosque until Casablanca's Hassan II Mosque came along in the early 1990s.

Dining Tip: Al Firdaous (10, rue Zenjfour) has mastered the art of Moroccan tagines, pastillas, and couscous. Expect belly dancing, Berber Gnaoua music and exceptional service.

Marrakesh

Menara Garden
A popular rendezvous haunt for locals, the garden is a peaceful and refreshing removal from the intense hustle and bustle of the city itself. (photo, right)

Ali Ben Youssef Medersa
North Africa's largest such institution, the medersa is an extraordinarily well-preserved 16th-century Koranic school.

Djemâa el Fna
Centuries-old meeting place of regional farmers and tradesmen, the Djemâa stretches as far as the eye can see, flanked with small mosques and a series of cafés.

El Badi Palace
This 16th-century palace's vast sandstone ruins are now a serene nesting ground for storks. Along the palace's south wall are a series of underground dungeons and corridors, which you can freely explore.

Saadian Tombs
The mausoleum complex was discovered only in 1917 during the French Protectorate. The central mausoleum, the Hall of Twelve Columns, which contains the tombs of Ahmed el Mansour and his family, is dark and lavishly ornate.

Ramparts
The medina's well-preserved walls measure about 33 feet high and 7 feet thick. Until the early 20th century, the gates were closed at night to prevent anyone who didn't live in Marrakesh from entering.

Dining Tip: Dar Marjana (15, Derb Sidi Tair, Bab Doukkala, opposite Dar el Basha) has exquisitely delicious couscous, lamb tagine, and a troupe of lively Gnaoua musicians. Do try the mahia -- fig liqueur. The staff is charming and the fixed price includes unlimited drinks.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

ATMs in Morocco.

2007-02-05T00:49:00.000Z

ATM FACT FILE

Visa and Mastercard are accepted at most ATMs for cash advances, but remember credit cards are not accepted at a lot of smaller shops. The maximum amount you can withdraw is usually 4000 dirhams which is around 370 Euro, 460 USD or 230 British pounds.

You can search for Visa locations here: Visa Search
You can search for Mastercard here: Mastercard Search

Dinners Club and American Express are hardly ever accepted. If you have American Express you can find agents at Schwartz Voyages offices.

Executive Office: 197, Bd.Zerktouni, Angle Rue d'Avignon, 7ème étage - Casablanca
Tel: (212) 22 36 73 30
Fax: (212) 22 36 72 84
E-mail: info@schwartz-voyages.com

Head Office : C/O Hôtel Intercontinental - Parc brooks- Tanger
Tel: (212) 39 93 60 28
Fax: (212) 39 93 01 59
E-mail: info@schwartz-voyages.com

Branch Office : 112 Av. Prince Abdellah - Casablanca
Tel: (212) 22 36 73 30
Fax: (212) 22 36 72 84
E-mail: info@schwartz-voyages.com

Branch Office : 54, Bld Pasteur - Tanger
Tel: (212) 39 93 60 28
Fax: (212) 39 93 01 59
E-mail: info@schwartz-voyages.com

Branch Office : 1, Rue Mauritania - Imm.Moutawakil - Marrakech
Tel: (212) 44 43 74 69
Fax: (212) 44 43 74 69
E-mail: info@schwartz-voyages.com

SOME ATM RULES
(courtesy of Morocco Time)

1. Never use an ATM at a bank that’s not open.

2. Have a “buffer” bank account. By that, I mean have a second checking or savings account for use overseas, not tied to your main account by overdraft protection or anything similar. When you need money, transfer funds into it from your main account. That way, if your debt card or account number is compromised, there is minimal damage, and you can cancel the account without completely inconveniencing yourself.

3. Don’t waste your time trying to be friendly when the situation involves your money. Be polite but firm.

See our story on THE DANGERS OF MOROCCAN ATMs

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

How do I fly to Morocco?

2007-02-04T22:10:00.000Z

We get a steady stream of emails from people wanting to know what airlines fly into Morocco. So, to make things easy for you, here is a list of carriers, including links to their websites. Remember to shop around as the prices for tickets varies considerably during the year. Bookmark this page as we will update the list as new services come on stream or others drop off. If you have fresh information about new services or ones that no longer operate, please email us at fes.riad@gmail.com

Air Algerie
Aigle Azur
Air Berlin
Air Europa
Atlas Blue
Alitalia
Axis Airways
Air France
Air Malta
Air Mauritanie
Air Senegal
Binter Canarias
British Airways
Buraq Air
Condor
Corsair
Easyjet
Edelweiss Air
Egypt Air
Emirates
Etapes Nouvelles
Etihad Airways
First Choice
Hapagfly
Helisureste
Iberia Regional
Jet Air
Jet4you
Lufthansa
Libyan Arab Airlines
Neos Air
Portugalia
Qatar Airways
Regional Airlines Maroc
Royal Air Maroc
Ryanair
Saudi Arabian Airlines
SN Brussels
Spanair
Star Airlines
Sunway
Syrian Arab Airlines
Thomas Cook
Thomsonfly
THY Turkish
Top Fly
Transavia
Tunis Air

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan design - a trend for 2007?

2007-02-01T01:02:00.000Z

Recently we paid tribute to My Marrakesh for it wonderful coverage of Moroccan design and a superb shopping guide. Now, if you think that Moroccan design is suited only to Morocco, think again. It is not only wonderful almost anywhere - it is now very much in demand. If we had any doubts about that, they vanished when we came upon the website of design consultant Holly Becker who hails from Boston in the USA.

Her Design 8 tribute to Morocco featured some wonderful photographs and a generous link to both The View from Morocco and My Marrakesh (Thanks Holly). The excerpt here is followed by a link to her site:

Trends 2007: Mad About Morocco!

I'm hearing lots of buzz about the Moroccan look, derived from Hispanic-Moorish style influences, bursting with warmth and energy. Before Canadian House + Home spotted the Modern Moor as a hot trend for '07, I was already seeing it popping up here in the states and last year, over in Germany, too. H+H says that the Modern Moor look avoids "busy" ethnic interiors by "modernizing the classic motifs and stripping them down to their pure and graphic essence."

Seems culturally inspired decor is popular everywhere you look, Moroccan being one of my favorites because it's not only welcoming, warm, and somewhat inexpensive, but it's easy to pull together and adds lots of personality to a space. You don't have to go over the top with it either. A throw rug, some toss pillows, a bright yellow lamp, an accent wall, and that's all you need to pull together a rockin' little casbah of your very own.

You will find Decor 8 here.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Meknes - the food guide

2007-01-29T22:19:00.000Z

You've seen the Meknes Bar Report compiled by our fellow blogger at the Morocco Report - well now she has compiled a restaurant report.

I suppose you have no idea where to eat in Meknes! Sadly, Meknes is not the restaurant mecca that its larger sisters Marrakech and Rabat purport to be, but she holds her own compared to Fez at least. So without further ado, I bring you...

The Meknes Restaurant Report

Le Pub (Allal ben Abdellah) - My personal favorite, for the sheer fact that salmon roleaux are on the menu. Their steak is so juicy, it's probably not halal, and they have a full wine list and bar. The downstairs "club" of sorts is a bit rowdy, with a live band, noise which occasionally assaults your ears in the dining area, but it's of no matter - the lasagne quatre fromages or the cotelete avec champignons make it worth it.

Palais Didi (medina) - My favorite of the medina choices (though I admit that I have not yet eaten at Ryad Bahia). The food isn't even that spectacular, but this renovated guesthouse-riad has the best atmosphere and the best views from the rooftop. If you order the tajine for your whole party, it will be fantastic, but the other choices weren't so stellar.

Les Colliers de la Colombe (medina) - Another incredible view, but this time it overlooks the dry Oued Boufekrane and Meknes' ville nouvelle (Hamrya). The steaks were too fatty, but try the b'stila - to die for. The best part is that this fancy restaurant is nowhere near as overpriced as the palace restaurants of Fez.

Grilladiere - Moving into the next class of restaurants, Grilladiere is Morocco's equivalent of say, TGI Friday's. Clean, somewhat out of the way (I don't recall the street name), but with a delicious menu of brochettes, Frenchy salads, pizza, and even a "poissonerie," Grilladiere is a good bet, particularly with family or for lunch. They also deliver!

Pizzeria Le Four (near the Amir Abdelkader train station) - Styled with Italian woodworking, low ceilings, and a fake rose on table, the pizza here is delicious and I believe they have draught beer. Quite tasty onion soup as well, and good prices.

Quik (Route de Fez, Kumbata) - A bit out of the way, but a great stop if you've got a car and are heading in the direction of Fez. The specialties are pizza and Vietnamese. You heard me right. Try the Vietnamese soups and the Jardiniere pizza.

Serenity (Ave. Mohammed V) Another of my favorites. This place is bright and sunny, the servers are highly competent, and they serve pizza, pasta, tajines, panini, crepes - you name it. The salads and desserts are the best in Meknes, and in the summer, their rooftop patio is absolutely lovely day or night.

Label' Gallery - Why am I mentioning fast food? Because if you're in Meknes for quite some time, you might start craving it and McDonald's is atrocious just like everywhere in the world. And because it's the only really "foreign" food in town - there's Petit Libanais (excellent), Bangkok Cafe (delicious) and Nachos y Tacos Tex Mex (um, only the fajitas are edible). We get delivery from Bangkok frequently - the salade Vietnamienne is so good I can't resist it.

Midway Pizza - Delicious pizza but virtually no seating area. There's one in Fez as well.

I give each and every one of those the seal of approval. There are a few other nice places, but I haven't tried them out yet. Restaurant Bellevue is one, but it's only open for lunch and has a bar, so I'm waiting for a long day off to really try it out. Another is some new hotel out by Marjane, but without a car, it's pointless, as taxis don't often run after Marjane closes. I'll keep you posted.

Our thanks to The Morocco Report

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Morocco - Hiking and climbing paradise

2007-01-28T22:15:00.000Z

Our story about exploring the hills around Fez on a mountain bike started us thinking about all of the outdoor activities that tend to be forgotten when you are snowed in in your riad.

There are hundreds of fabulous places for climbing, trekking and even rafting, but here is a sample to give you a taste of what Morocco has to offer. We will expand this post in the future and if you have a favourite trek or bike route, let us know and we will add it in. Email us at fes.riad@gmail.com

Biking Morocco

Biking is superb in Morocco and our pick would be the ride from the Todra Gorge to to the Tamatattouchte Pass and a great downhill run to the village of Msemrir. Then, from the Gorge du Dades to the village of Bou Thar. Bike tour operators will arrange transfers to most hotels in the region, for example it is possible to bike the zig-zag from Bou Thar to the head of the valley, followed by a downhill run to where you can be transfered to the Boulmaine Dades Hotel. One tour organisation does ten to twelve day trips, others offer shorter versions. With your own arrangements you can work out an itinerary that fits your budget and time.

Great places for Trekking.

Middle Atlas scenery

FROM FEZ

There is a great four and a half to five hour trek which starts from Azrou (where they hold the tuesday Souq) . The first destination is the summit of Ras Kharzouza (1900 m) which you reach by way of some beautiful juniper, oak and cork forests that give way to cedar at around 1600 m. From the top of Kharzouza there is a spectacular view out over the Tigrigra Valley, Azrou and the village of Ain Leuh. The best descent is down the other side of the mountain, through Tizi Tioumliline and on to the track beside the Oued Sebbab that leads you back to Azrou. A word of warning - don't feed the Barbary Apes! I have had one launch itself onto my back and this is not an experience to be recommended.

Friendly local checks the time

Another five hour walk starts from Sefrou. If you want to spend time in the souq there, the market day is Friday. The best route for a trek here takes you from Sefrou to the tiny town of Bhalil some one and a half hours away. Bhalil is an ancient Christian city founded by Roman soldiers who had opted out of the Second Legion - or so the story goes. But more astonishing is the present day reality that just behind the village are a few dozen families living in caves. Yes, modern day troglodytes. The walk continues through some beautiful scenic spots and plenty of wildlife in a slow circle down to the starting point at Sefrou.

FROM MARRAKECH

The pick of the High Atlas trips starts from the Bou Guemmez Valley, heading south-west through Berber villages and astounding scenery to three of the highest peaks in the Atlas - Mgoun (4069m./13346ft), Ouanoukrim (4088m./13408ft) and Jebel Toubkal (4167m./13668ft). Starting point in Morocco for this trip is Marrakech and unless you are a very experienced trekker or climber, I would suggest hiring a local guide. There are now some package tours that also give you a chance to climb Toubkal in winter. This is not a particularly difficult ascent although keeping an eye on the weather is a must and I would suggest throwing in an ice-axe and crampons!

In between the High Atlas and the Sahara, is Jebel Sahro range. This is a fabulous area for climbing and trekking in the winter months. The best way in is via Ouarzazate on the south side of the Atlas. There are dozens of relatively easy walking paths between the Berber villages, however, local knowledge is a must, so again, get advice from a local guide. The highest peak here is Amalou n'Mansour (2712m./8895ft.)

As a base camp for trekking or climbing near Toubkal, we recommend Dar Tassa. You can find out about them via email: info@dartassa.com

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Marrakech on the Web.

2007-01-25T01:50:00.000Z

While we have a slight bias towards the Medina of Fez, Marrakech is one of those places that, if you are any sort of traveler at all, you will eventually visit.

So, just to encourage you in that direction, here a list of some worthwhile places to stay or to eat that you can visit on the web. We are happy to include any others that you might like to suggest - just email us at fes.riad@gmail.com

However, just to put you in the mood, the first link is to our favourite Marrakesh blog followed by some general resources including The View from Fez personal favourites.

GENERAL

My Marrakesh - weblog

I love Marrakech - Tourism site

Where to stay and where to eat - our picks.

Made in Marrakech - includes nightclub revues.

Couleurs Marrakech - Magazine (Fr)

RIADS & RESTAURANTS

Bab Firdaus

Dar Zina

L'Orangeraie

Les jardins de la Koutoubia

Terrasse des Oliviers

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Trekking accomodation - one hour from Marrakech

2007-01-24T23:19:00.000Z

Dar Tassa - an authentic Berber house in the High Atlas about one hour drive outside Marrakech. A great place to start your walking or trekking holiday in Morocco.

This Ecofriendly project is working closely with the local association of the village & promotes responsible & sustainable tourism.

Dar Tassa, literally meaning the home of motherly love in the local Berber language, extends a heartfelt welcome to all who wander to our corner of the world. A luxury House in a serene, mountain setting, Dar Tassa is located just over 40 minutes drive from Marrakech inside Toubkal National Park, home to the highest peak in North Africa (Jbel Toubkal 4165 m).

Our cozy refuge provides an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, with all the modern comforts and added charm of traditional Moroccan hospitality. From the moment you arrive we greet you with a steaming cup of mint tea. The wild nature of this place and the warm nature of its people help you understand that marhaba, "welcome", is more than an expression, it's our way of life here.

Contact details:

Email: info@dartassa.com

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Chic shopper's guide to Marrakech.

2007-01-21T00:20:00.000Z

Once again we are in debt to the wonderful My Marrakesh blog for a look at the upmarket shopping possibilities in the sinful city of Marrakech.

But the shopping....Well, that's another category altogether. Now that is a serious matter.

So with that in mind, I am going to give you a short shopping round-up (Part 1). Because a girl (or a guy) can't help but spend...

THE MEDINA

First off, the souks in the old city or the medina. If only you can imagine this maze of serpentine streets. Close your eyes and see before you a labyrinth filled to overflowing with pottery, slippers, poufs, spices, lanterns, paintings, baskets, carpets, bags, jewelery...more....and more....Does it ever stop? I am not sure; I always give up before the end, so laden down with purchases am I. Where is that mule when I need him?

The prices in the souks are negotiable at most of the stores, with just a few exceptions. So remember to bargain, haggle, wheedle, plead, walk away and then come back again. Your first price should be about 1/3 to 1/2 of the asking price. Then you negotiate upwards a little.

I might just mention a few shops by name...

Check it out here: Marrakech: A shopper's Paradise?

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez - restaurant update

2007-01-20T20:45:00.000Z

Lumen has been out and about and some news on the restaurant front.

There’s a new chef at Trois Sources and he’s cooking up a storm. Now it’s not easy to get out there unless you have a car, it’s true. But last week saw a table of 13 Fassi regulars and visitors (Heinrich and crew from London, Patrick from Johannesburg, Nicola and Roger from London – he’s a poet and we could do with one of those in Fez) eating superb creations ranging from warm goats cheese rounds on various leaves or even chicken gizzards for starters (supposedly wonderful) to simply fabulous duck dishes. There are a lot of duck dishes to choose from. Everyone enjoyed themselves so much that they forgot to order dessert. Lumen had to return last night, just for research purposes, of course. The sole with green curry sauce and Thai vegetables was very good indeed. And the guitarist is great.

Zagora has a new menu too. This friendly standard (with, um, quirky, décor) offers Moroccan cuisine as well as good steaks and excellent fish. The menu has had a refreshing (albeit still on the safe side) revamp, with rosemary sauce for the steak and some new dishes. It’s always busy and the staff is great. So great, indeed, that the young daughter of a visitor over Christmas who left her brand new digital camera there, was relieved when Cherif put it on the CTM bus down to Essaouira and all turned out well.

Out at the tennis club, the new Majestic is coming into its own. The ‘autumn’ salads are superb – full of artichoke hearts, peeled broad beans, Brussels sprouts, fresh peas and raspings of good parmesan. Pasta dishes are good and big enough to share … The main courses are good but expensive, but there are whisperings that the wine list (starts at Dh260!!!) is to be reviewed … downwards, we hope.

At the other end of the scale, good ol’ Chicken Mac in Avenue Lalla Meryem opposite the Société Générale bank is lots of fun. You can have a slap-up meal there and not pay a great deal, while the people-watching is great. Patrick was impressed with a salad niçoise to start, then half a chicken, rice, baguette with harissa to dip, chips too, came to around Dh65. You can’t do much better than that.

Things are looking up a bit on the restaurant front in Fez – some of the old favourites had better look to their standards of cleanliness and general boringness of menus that haven’t changed in years …..

More information on Fez restaurants here: Fez Restaurant Guide

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Where to buy tickets to the Fez Sacred Music Festival

2007-01-08T00:16:00.001Z

We have had several emails asking about where to purchase tickets for the Fes Sacred Music Festival. Here is the general information and we will update it when prices for this year are announced.

Tickets are not on sale yet - but when they become available you can book them in advance through a travel agency called Objectif Maroc. You will find them here: Festival de Fès des Musiques Sacrées du Monde or in Fes at 9 Rue de Turquie.

Tickets usually range from Dh200-Dh600 each, depending on the artist. If the artist is popular, it's best to book in advance. For some concerts, you can buy tickets at the door. You can get a pass for all the concerts; for the past couple of years this has cost Dh2500. Some events are free, such as the concerts at Boujloud Square nightly at 18h00 and at Champs de Course nightly at 20h00, as well as the Sufi nights at Dar Tazi that start at 23h00.

For accommodation during the Festival - book here: Fes Riads.

See the provisional programme here: Fes Sacred Music Festival

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Visiting the sand dunes of Morocco.

2007-01-06T22:31:00.000Z

Just 500 kilometres from Fez are some of the most spectacular sand dunes in the world. The place to head to is Merzouga and the dunes of Erg Chebbi.

Erg Chebbi. Photo Suzanna Clarke
If you decide to drive yourself, be aware that approaching Merzouga you will be traveling through hammada or stony desert and it it just that - kilometres of desert with lots of stones. Careful driving and carrying plenty of water is an absolute must. If you have any concerns, get a local driver as the roads can quickly vanish under sand during storms and at times visibility can be reduced to zero. Getting lost in this part of the world is not a joke.

Merzouga floods
Although it is a rare event, this part of the world can flood and has done so a recently as May last year - with devastating results. The lesson here is, keep an eye on the weather and be prepared.

Over the years it has been difficult to get good accommodation in Merzouga, but now that is all changing. A number of hotels have sprung up around the fringes of the dunes and although they are of varying quality, they are a vast improvement on the previously basic conditions. In the nearby town of Rissani (34 km from the dunes), you will find the wonderful Hôtel Kasbah Asmaa and on the outskirts of Erfoud (55 km from the dunes) the Kasbah Xaluca Maadid.

Kasbah Xaluca
Around the actual dunes you will find the Auberge Berberes, Auberge Sahara, Auberge du Sud, Haven La Chance, Hotel Yasmina, Kasbah Erg Chebbi, Ksar Sania, Les Flamants Rose, Les Portes du Desert, Nasser Palace and the Wilderness Lodge.

For a quick location check and more general information take a look at the interactive Google Earth map here: Merzouga Map.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Sacred Music Festival 2007 - provisional program

2007-01-05T21:22:00.000Z

The thirteenth annual FES FESTIVAL OF WORLD SACRED MUSIC 2007
A celebration of the 800th anniversary of the birth of the Sufi poet, Jalaludin Rumi

Provisional Programme

1 June
20h00 BAB MAKINA
Barbara Hendricks
With the Drottningholm Baroc Ensemble with their favourite programme:
Stabat Mater by Pergolèse, and sacred songs

2 June
16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Parissa and the Ensemble Dastan with their interpretation of the Sufi poems of Jalaludin Rumi
Gol-e Behesht (Les Roses du Paradis)

20h00 BAB MAKINA
Johnny Clegg, ‘The White Zulu’ presents One Life

3 June
Sunrise at the MERINIDES QUARRY
Bartabas with his horse Le Caravage, Sufi musicians Nezih Uzel and Kudsi Erguner, salute the dawn.

16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Coro Gregoriano de Lisboa
The source of Gregorian Chant

20h00 BAB MAKINA
Tania Maria, Brazilian pianist and singer, presents memories born of cries for liberty and the forbidden pride of an ancient culture

4 June
16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Claire Zalamansky
Sephardic Song

20h00 BAB MAKINA
Halakat Jalaludin Rumi
Ayin-i Djem, a gathering of the Kadiria and Mawlawiya Brotherhoods,
with dhikr, sama’a and calls of the muezzin, in memory of Jalal ad-Din Rumi

5 June
16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Aïcha Mint Chighaly, singer and musician, one of the most celebrated griots of Mauritania

20h00 BAB MAKINA
Akhtar Sharif Arup Vâle Qawwâls, the official qawwâl of the patron saint of Lahore, the greatest qawwâli centre in the world

6 June
Sunrise at the MERINIDES QUARRY
Bartabas with his horse Le Caravage, Sufi musicians Nezih Uzel and Kudsi Erguner, salute the dawn.

20h00 BAB MAKINA
Sonia Mbarek, ++
Three great voices of Arab-Andalous music

7 June
16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Missa Flamenca Murciana
with the Piñana Brothers and Cuban string quartet

20h00 BAB MAKINA
Angélique Kidjo
World-renowned singer from Benin and UNICEF ambassador

8 June
16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Vasumathi Badrinathan
Karnataka Song from India

20h00 BAB MAKINA
to be confirmed

9 June
16h00 BATHA MUSEUM
Great voices of the the East: Waed Bouhassoun (Syria)sings Jalaludin Rumi and Nâdira Pirmatova (Uzbekistan) sings from the mystics of Central Asia

20h00 BAB MAKINA
London Community Gospel Choir
The magic of Gospel

Please remember that accommodation will be at a premium and so book now with Fes Riads where you not only get the biggest choice of traditional riads and dars, but you will also be helping preserve the Fez Medina. You will find Fes Riads here: Festival Accommodation.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan Recipes #3

2007-01-04T21:46:00.000Z

CHICKEN TAGINE WITH CHICKPEAS

A great dish for the cooler months in Morocco. This version is for feeding up to eight people. Serve on a bed of couscous with flat bread (pita) on the side.

• 5 garlic cloves, peeled

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon ground ginger

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

• 2 chickens, quartered

• 2 pinches pulverized saffron

• 1 teaspoon turmeric

• ¼ cup finely chopped parsley

• 1 cinnamon stick

• ½ cup chopped scallions, white part only

• 5 tablespoons butter

• 1 large onion, peeled, sliced very thin

• 1/3 cup raisins (optional)

• 2 (15- to 20-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained

A day ahead, pound the garlic, salt, ginger and pepper into a paste with 2 tablespoons water and rub into the chicken quarters. Place in a large bowl, cover and refrigerate.

The next day, transfer the chicken pieces and any juices to a Dutch oven. Add a pinch of saffron and the turmeric, parsley, cinnamon stick, scallions and butter. Add 5 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer 1 hour, turning the chicken several times.

When the chicken is very tender, remove and keep warm. Add the onion and raisins to the sauce and cook until the onion is very soft and the sauce is thick. Return the chicken to the pot along with the chickpeas; reheat. And the remaining saffron and taste for seasoning.

Mound the chicken in a deep serving dish on top of couscous and spoon on the sauce.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Ten things to do in Fez

2006-12-25T07:55:00.000Z

Sadly many tourists only schedule a couple of days in Fez. They leave knowing they could have spent at least a month exploring the Medina and taking trips to Volubilis and Meknes. So for those who have limited time, here is a quick check list. It is unashamedly touristic - but then - you are a tourist, right? There are, of course, a dozen other places that could be added, but this will do as a starting point.

Merinid Tombs.

This is a fascinating area north of the medina where the ruins of the once magnificent palace and necropolis dating back to the 16th century are perched on the hillside overlooking Fes, offering a good view of the city below. Once magnificently clad in marble they have been looted by thieves over the centuries, leaving only the bare shells behind.

Below the tombs are the old remains of the city's wall dating back to the 12th century, built as a defence against marauding tribes and incorporating the leper quarters that were there at that time.

The Souks

Also known as the markets, a wonderful area with all kinds of wares and crafts on display, each in its own allocated area or street which probably has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. Everything you need for a magical Aladin theme, from slippers and spices to carpets and genie lamps to be found here. The whole area is saturated with history and interesting stalls, nooks and crannies. Right in the centre of the Souks is the kissaria, where luxury items and export specialities of the area such as colourful, rich brocades and silks or intricate jewellery are sold. Take a taxi to Fez el-Bali near the Ech Cherabliyine Mosque and explored the area on foot.

Musee des Armes

This is a 16th century fortress was commissioned by the Saadian sultan Ahmed El -Mansour and stands on a raised area overlooking the city. The building houses an amazing collection of weapons (at least 8000 pieces) from all over the world and date back to prehistoric times. Intricately decorated silver daggers and other priceless pieces are on display in chronological order in 16 different rooms in the building. Many of these were donated by various Alaouite sultans, one of whom being the Moulay Hassan I.

Fondouk el-Nejjarine

This is probably the most well known building in Fes and was declared a national monument in 1916 and a World Heritage Site. Built as a stopover for trading caravans in the 18th century it currently holds a privately run Museum of Wood which has beautiful displays of the unique wood carving skills that the Moroccans are famous for. The elegant fountain and delicate arches on the interior are prime examples of the craftsmanship and love of beauty that is so typically Moroccan. The building is near to the Henna Souk area of Fes el-Bali.

Bou Inania Medersa

A medersa is an institute which serves as a blend of cultural, religious and eductional upliftment and those in Morocco were of top quality and held in high regard. This lovely building, built in 1350, has much worth admiring and has served as a combination of student residence, mosque and school. The central courtyard is paved with onyx and marble and is enclosed by a cloister on three sides. Beautiful friezes, stuccowork and stained glass windows in a Moorish architectural setting blend together forming the uniqueness and richness that is typical of Moroccan style and craftsmanship. This is one of the few Islamic religious buildings open to non muslims and is well worth the visit.

Sofitel Palais Jamai

Spoil yourself rotten! This 19th century hotel which is located above the medina (which is on UNESCO's World Heritage List). The hotel was originally built in 1879 for the Grand Vizir of Jamaïa and is surrounded by superb gardens and the architecture is truly gorgeous. So don your jellaba (loose traditional tunic) or silken kaftan robes and float around like royalty for a night. With the reputation of being the most beautiful hotel in the country, it would be easy to play the role of Berber princess or swashbuckling sultan in this 101 Arabian Nights setting.

Sample Moroccan specialities and pots of mint tea or international and French cuisine at their 3 restaurants. Very pricey but worth it for those who are used to being treated like royalty.

Musee Dar el-Batha

This museum is a few minutes walk from Bab Boujeloud and is housed in a palace built in 1873 by Moulay el-Hassan. There is a impressive tiled courtyard with a fountain and a beautiful Andalusian garden encompassing the area. You may need some time to properly take in all the displays that are spread over 12 rooms in the building. 11th century gold embossed leatherbound books, Andalusian manuscripts dating back to the 8th and examples of illuminated calligraphy will be of interest to bookworms, historians and scholars.

Fine old specimens of Moroccan craftsmanship such as Berber jewellery, ceramics, embroidery and calendabras and other everyday articles used hundreds of years ago can be seen in rooms 2 to 5 of the museum. Woodwork has always been a highly esteemed craft in Morocco with exotic woods such as cedar, thuya and citron used for beautifully designed chests and furniture examples of which are on display. Zellij tilework adorns most mosques and fine buildings in the country and the display of this colourful art is not to be missed.

Le Palais de Fes

15 Rue Makhfia. Take in the stunning view of the medina of Fes from the terrace while enjoying authentic Moroccan cuisine at this restaurant. The building was an old residence and has been adapted to accommodate group bookings and even has a carpet shop on one floor. All you need to complete the picture is an obliging genie and you could be away on a magic carpet ride over the city.

Dar el- Makhzen

This is a palatial complex in the centre of Fes el-Jedid which still serves as residence to the King of Morocco when he is in the area. Surrounded by high walls and guarded by huge bronze doors set in an imposing Moorish gateway which remains permanently shut are palaces (yes, more than one) and official government buildings. Until 1912 Fes el-Jedid was the administrative centre of the country.

The brass and bronzed doors are richly decorated with intricate engravings and are particularly impressive. Apart from the palaces and offices there are gardens, a zoo, mosque and medersa (Koranic school).

Sefrou - A side trip

Take a bus or grand taxi trip to the nearby town of Sefrou if you are in the area in June. This is when the locals celebrate the harvest of the cherries. Join in the festivities and the procession to the tomb of the prophet Daniel, which is in the Kef el-Moumen Caves up the river. The festival continues for several days and culminates in a colourful procession and the coronation of the Cherry Queen.

Experience the folklore of the area through the folk dancing and singing. If you are lucky a fantasia may be held. This is a colourful display of horsemanship where the riders get to show off their riding skills, beautiful steeds and elaborate saddles.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan Cooking Lessons in Fez

2006-12-15T01:36:00.000Z

Here at The View from Morocco, we enjoy great Moroccan cooking and although we pride ourselves on making our own preserved lemons and cooking a mean tagine, we certainly don't have the skills of Lahcen Beqqi. He runs wonderful classes on Moroccan cooking so that you can learn the secrets of the local cuisine.

As he says, "Moroccan cuisine is said to be one of the most important cuisines in the world and Fes is considered to be the capital of Moroccan cooking. Every visitor to Morocco can savor the delights of its gastronomy when they taste tagines, pastilla, and couscous in the various fine Moroccan restaurants. However, few tourists get the chance to experience the preparation of Moroccan cuisine; something that is essential to understanding the culture. When you take cooking lessons with me, you will experience first-hand the process of food preparation that Moroccans perform every day, from choosing your own fresh ingredients in the open-air market, to cooking in a traditional Moroccan house."

Lahcen is not only a great chef, but an excellent teacher and his lessons in Moroccan cuisine are more than simply cooking. The lesson starts in the morning, at around 9:30, when he takes you on a trip to the open-air market (or the “souk” in Arabic), where you will buy all of your fresh ingredients. Lahcen will teach you how to pick the freshest goods. You will also be able to pick up a local wine for your meal. After grocery shopping, you will return for your lesson, which will be held at Dar El-Hana, a beautiful traditional Moroccan home restored to be a guest house. In the beginning of the lesson, Lahcen will provide you with typed and printed recipes for the meal that you will be making. He is more than happy to accommodate vegetarian needs, as well. Finally, what is more satisfying than to eat food that you have prepared? You and Lahcen will eat your dish for lunch, when you may choose to try eating “à la Marocaine”, using bread and your right hand, instead of a fork and knife. The length of the lesson depends on the cooking time for the dish, but usually, a lesson will last about 5 hours (from the grocery shopping to eating).

Lahcen is a Berber from the south of Morocco, in the High Atlas. He grew up in Amellago, a small agricultural village in the Gris Valley. Amellago is situated between Imilchil, where the annual Marriage Festival is held, and Merzouga, the entry to the tallest sand dunes of the Sahara. Lahcen’s father is a shepherd and a farmer, so Lahcen spent his childhood in the mountains, taking care of the herd, and in the field, helping his parents farm the land. When he was 10 years old, his parents sent him to another town for school. This is when Lahcen learned to cook for himself. After he got his baccalaureate and finished high school, Lahcen worked in a small restaurant and he became fascinated by the work of the chef. This is when he decided that he wanted to make cooking his career. He went to hotelier school, but he got his most valuable experience when he worked in Azrou alongside a Moroccan chef named Aziz, who had been trained at the world-renowned cooking school in Laussane, Switzerland. With Aziz, Lahcen learned how to make cooking an art. Since then, he has continued to perfect his art. He is adventuresome in his cooking, yet at the same time remains dedicated to exploring Moroccan cuisine from every region of the country. As well as teaching cooking lessons, Lahcen works at a guest house in Fes as the chef de cuisine.

Here's one of Lahcen's great recipes:

Lamb, Prune, and Date Tagine

This dish is a traditional Moroccan tagine. Because it is sweet and it includes dates, it is often served when a family has company over.

For 3 people

* ½ kilo of a shoulder of lamb
* 250 grams of dried prunes (around 30 prunes)
* 6 dates (pitted)
* one big red onion, sliced
* 200 grams of roasted almonds
* one cinnamon stick
* one pinch of ginger
* one pinch of saffron (pistils)
* one pinch of salt (or to taste)
* one pinch of pepper (or to taste)

Wash the prunes and put them in one liter of water. Let them sit. Put ginger, saffron, and lamb in a big pot. Cook on medium flame. Mix for one minute. Add olive oil and onion. Leave for 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper. Take the prunes out of the water and put them aside. Keep the water! Pour it into the pot with the lamb. Let the meat cook for 1 ½ hours (or however long it takes to cook) on a medium flame. *You can also leave it on a low flame and let it cook longer. Add the prunes and dates in the last 15 minutes.

Visit Lahcen's website for more details. Moroccan Cooking Lessons

Samir's fish tagine with preserved lemon and chermoula

Preserved Lemons Samir Style

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan Recipes #2

2006-12-15T00:59:00.000Z

We have had a number of emails asking about Moroccan food, and recipes. So we decided to share three of our favourites. A couple of basic things you will need are a decent tagine that will fit in your oven, some preserved lemons ( see link below for a classic recipe) and some Moroccan spices. Most good food shops stock everything you need.

Chermoula

Chermoula can be used as a great dipping sauce for flatbread, but is traditionally used as a marinade**. Superb on fish but fine on any other meat - or even vegetarian tagines.

To make one cup:

1 well washed bunch of fresh coriander.
3 large cloves of garlic, peeled and squashed.
1 teaspoon each of ground cumin, coriander and paprika.
1 small red chilli (remove the seeds!)
1/2 teaspoon of sea salt.
Juice of 1 large lemon
1/4 cup of olive oil.

Blend to a rough textured paste with a food processor or mortar and pestle.

**For a marinade - add 1/2 a tablespoon of tomato paste, 3 extra tablespoons of olive oil, 2 generous pinches of good quality saffron and 1/3 of a cup of water. After coating fish or chicken in the marinade, assemble in tagine and pour remainder over entire dish.

Samir's fish tagine with preserved lemon and chermoula

Takes about 15 minutes to prepare and cooks for 90 minutes (Serves 8)

8 thick portions of white fish.
500 grams of sliced tomatoes.
3 large oniuons sliced.
1 green and 1 red pepper, sliced.
1 preserved lemon cut in thin strips.
1 generous cup of chermoula marinade.

Rub fish in marinade.
Cover the base of the tagine ( or deep earthenware dish) with a layer of half the onions and tomatoes and lemon strips.

Next add the fish and then the remaining onions, tomatoes, lemon strips and peppers.
Pour remaining chermoula over the top and place the tagine lid on firmly.

Cook at 150 celsius for ninety minutes and serve on a bed of couscous.

Note: You can substitute chicken or lamb for the fish.

Lamb Shanks with Dates and Olives

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 1/2 to 4 pounds lamb shanks
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 teaspoons dried thyme
3 bay leaves, broken in half
2 sprigs plus 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup green Moroccan olives, either pitted or unpitted
1/3 cup capers with a little of the juice
1 cup dry red wine
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/3 cup palm sugar
12 large Medjool dates, unpitted
1/4 teaspoon harissa or two pinches hot red pepper flakes
water

Heat oil in a large, nonreactive, deep-sided pot with a lid, set over medium-high heat. When hot, add lamb shanks and brown on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat.

In a small bowl, mix together cumin, salt, pepper and thyme, then sprinkle this mixture over browned lamb. Add bay leaves, 2 parsley sprigs, olives and capers to pot. Pour wine and vinegar over lamb, then sprinkle brown sugar over the mixture. Cover pan tightly with a double thickness of aluminum foil, then with the lid.

Bake on center rack of preheated 375-degree oven for 45 minutes, then remove pot from oven and turn meat. Add dates; cover pan again with foil and lid, and continue to cook until meat is fork-tender, about 50 to 60 minutes more.

Remove pan from oven and uncover it. Stir in harissa or red pepper flakes and 1/2 cup water. (Lamb can be prepared two days ahead. Cool, cover it with foil and lid, and refrigerate. Reheat, covered with foil and lid, in 375-degree oven until hot, about 25 minutes.)

To serve, arrange lamb shanks over couscous mounded in a serving bowl or on a platter. Ladle sauce with dates and olives over lamb, then sprinkle with chopped parsley. With a sharp knife, slice lamb shanks before serving. You can also serve lamb individually by cutting lamb from shanks first. Mound some couscous in four shallow bowls and arrange meat on top, then ladle sauce over and sprinkle with parsley. Be sure to let everyone know there are pits in the olives, if you used unpitted ones.

Link: Preserved Lemon Recipe - Moroccan Preserved Lemon.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Need to advertise something in Morocco?

2006-12-12T03:21:00.000Z

ArtiZany are just testing out a free classified advertisement site - covering the whole of Morocco. So, if you have some thing you want to sell, swap or buy - or even want to place a personal request for help, advice, accommodation or a traveling companion, it is all there for free.

There is a charge for listing commercial products or services - but everything else is free!

Check it out here: ArtiZany - or simply email your classified ad to artizany@gmail.com.

This is another public service from The View from Fez.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The "in place" to stay in Fez.

2006-12-09T10:04:00.000Z

There have been a number of very large riads restored over the years with varying degrees of success. Today we report on not only the most recent, but also, thankfully, one of the better ones.

Riad Laaroussa is the latest addition to the riads offering accommodation in Fez and is about to open after two years of painstaking renovation. A 17th century palace with floors covering over 1000 square metres, Riad Laaroussa is magnificent and restoring it an astonishing achievement for a man whose grandfather was a postman in Fez.

A Frenchman, Fred Sola's ancestors traveled from Sicily to Tunisia and then on to Fez at the turn of the last century. As his father lived in Casablanca and he has numerous relatives in the rural areas around Fez, moving into the medina has been something of a homecoming. It is interesting that a pragmatic man who has achieved so much is still touched by the "spirit" of Fez. "There is definitely something happening here - beyond explanation,' says Fred, gesturing with his hands as if trying to grasp the unknown.

Although Fred has been living in Paris for the last fifteen years, residing on a houseboat on the Seine and working in the finance industry, he has proved to be something of a renaissance man. Allowing his artistic side to surface he has done most of the interior design of the riad. While the traditional aspects of the riad structure and decoration have been conserved, Fred Sola's eclectic tastes in interiors have stylishly melded Moroccan and Indonesian influences. The results are superb.

Situated in the heart of the Fez Medina, Riad Laaroussa was once home to the Minister Mnebhi. Restoring it has been a challenge and, while others might well have turned the riad into a multi-room hotel, Fred decided to create only five suites - each comfortable and spacious.

As well as fine accommodation and dining, the chef in their vast kitchen will conduct lessons in preparing Moroccan cuisine. The Riad is being managed by Fred's sister, Isabelle and her husband Theirry.

You can email Isabelle at: contact@riad-laaroussa.com
You will find the riad at: 3 Derb Bechara, Fès médina

Photographs: Suzanna Clarke - fes.riad@gmail.com

Riad Laaroussa
Average price*: $213 (€160)
3 Derb Bechara | Talaa Sghira, Fes 30200, Morocco

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Welcome to the View from Moroccco

2006-12-07T11:16:00.000Z

Photo credit: Suzanna Clarke

These are the lifestyle pages from The View from Fez. We have so many emails requesting information about where to stay, where to eat, where to go - that we decided to keep the information in one place.

So, if you want to know where to eat in Marrakech, or Tangier, or what day trip to take from Fez... or even which is the best bar in Meknes - then simply scroll down these pages.

We will update them as things change and let you know about upcoming cultural events. So bookmark this page.

We would love to hear from you if you have suggestions and we are also happy to run private adverts of furniture for sale or rooms to let. In fact - treat these pages as a public notice board.

Any enquiries : fes.riad@gmail.com

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Where to Stay and where to eat in Marrakech

2006-12-07T11:15:00.000Z

Of course we would suggest that you spend most of your time in Morocco exploring our wonderful Medina of Fes, but if you do decide to head to Marrakech, avoid the big hotels and stay in a riad or dar. Here is a list of some of the better ones.

• Dar Zouar, 14 Derb Mahrouk, is a modest riad in the north part of the medina (old quarter), near the tomb of Sidi Bel Abbes es Sebti, one of the city's seven venerated saints. It has five charmingly decorated and immaculately kept rooms, with private baths, priced for students and professors, owner Thierry Dugast said, from $58 to $70, including breakfast.

• Riad al Moussika, 62 Derb Boutouil is in a handsome mid-19th-century townhouse near the Museum Dar Si Said, a 10-minute walk south of the Place Jamaa el-Fna. It has a tiled swimming pool, two handsome courtyards, a hammam (Turkish-style bath) and six chambers, including a single and three suites. Rates are $185-$410, including high-speed DSL, transfers, breakfast and lunch.

• Riad Azzar, 94 Derb Moulay Abdelkader, in the central medina's Dabachi district, has been stylishly restored and decorated by Marique and Cees van den Berg, a Dutch couple, using treasures from their many trips to sub-Saharan Africa. It has a splash pool in the courtyard shaded by a banana tree, awning-covered roof terrace, and winding staircases leading to six rooms; $120-$390, including breakfast.

• Riad Farnatchi, 2 Derb el Farnatchi, is an elegant hideaway owned by an English hotelier, with an especially attentive staff. Guests are given djellaba robes and babouche slippers on arrival for lounging in curtained salons that look like stage sets surrounding two paradisiacal courtyards, one with a splash pool. Its six suites feature marble baths and custom-made beds and are priced at $370-$550, including breakfast, airport transfers, use of the hammam and nonalcoholic beverages and snacks.

• Riad Malika, 29 Arset Aouzal, near the Bab Doukkala Mosque, was one of the first guesthouses to open in the medina. Its funky-chic decor is part-Moroccan, part-1960s retro, with bubble lamps and Naugahyde chairs. It has two courtyards, one with a small pool and hammam, and 11 chambers, priced at $120-$175, including breakfast and lunch or dinner.

• Marrakech Riads, 8 Derb Cherfa Lakbir, is a collection of five guesthouses owned by a Moroccan who specializes in restoring traditional townhouses in the medina. Doubles are $70-$110, including breakfast.

• Hotels & Ryads, 20 Passage de la Bonne Graine, Paris, is a booking agency with a comprehensive Web site and English-speaking staff that handles 60 guesthouses and hotels in Marrakech, Essaouira and Fes. Rates about $50-$350 a night.

Dining in Marrakech

• Dar Moha, 81 Dar el Bacha, set in a garden around a pool, and Dar Zelli, 1 Kaasour Sidi Ben Slimane, in a fastidiously renovated 17th-century mansion with carved cedar ceilings and hand-cut mosaic tile, specialize in fine, traditional Moroccan fare. Multicourse dinners run $40-$45, and both restaurants have wine lists.

• Casa Lalla, Rue Riad Zitoune Lakdime, 16 Derb Jamaa, offers a set-price menu created by Michelin-starred British chef Richard Neat. There is one sitting at 8 p.m., and only 14 people are served each night, so the required reservations are hard to come by. The price per person is about $40, and diners may bring their own wine.

• Le Pavillon, 47 Derb Zaouia, and Le Foundouk, 55 El Moukef Souk Hal Fassi Kat Bennahid, both serve French food and wine in the heart of the medina. Dinner is about $40.

• Bo-Zin, Route de l'Ourika, is a 15-minute drive south of town, with a beautiful cactus garden for alfresco dining. The cuisine is chiefly Thai and there is a full bar. The price for a three-course dinner is $40-$50, not including drinks.

More information. Moroccan National Office of Tourism, 407-264-0133 .

LINKS:

Marrakech on the web

Fes Restaurant List

THE VIEW FROM FEZ: Eating out in Fez

Tags: Morocco, Fès, Maghreb, news

Moroccan Recipes #1

2006-12-07T11:12:00.000Z

Samir's M'qalli chicken with olives and preserved lemon

1 chicken
3 onions - sliced
3 cloves of garlic - crushed and chopped
1 spoonful of chopped fresh ginger
A generous pinch of saffron
1/4 cup of lemon juice
salt
1 cup of water
2 preserved lemons - sliced
10 green olives

Method

Clean and drain the chicken, salt it, leave it for 2 hours, then clean and drain it again.

Place chicken in a pressure cooker with onions, garlic, saffron, ginger, lemon juice, salt and water, mix and cover, then cook for about 30 minutes over medium heat.

Release the pressure and add lemon slices and olives cook for about 5 minutes on low flame.

Serve the chicken on a bed of couscous or saffron rice, decorated with olives and preserved lemon slices. Pour all the juices over the chicken!

Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fine dining in Fez

2006-12-07T08:57:00.000Z

There are several high class restaurants in Fez with correspondingly high prices. Others boast good food but the decor is so "Arabian Nights" that it feels like you are dining in a museum or movie set. Thankfully, The View from Fez can now suggest a new place to eat that combines great ambiance with reasonably priced delicious food. The restaurant is Dar Anebar and it is certainly worth a visit

Photo credit: Suzanna Clarke
Finding Dar Anebar is easy, which is a big plus in the Medina. Located in Derb Miter, off Zenjefour, the guest house and restaurant is only five minutes walk from the Palais Jamai hotel.

The entrance to the restaurant is a striking dark tadelakt hallway that opens onto a spacious courtyard, complete with fountain, obligatory rose petals and fine zellij tile work. The salons off to each side of the courtyard offer intimate dining while the courtyard itself is delightfully restrained. No crowding of tables to maximise profits, but rather very few discrete tables creating an atmosphere both intimate and spacious. The decor is vivid and interesting without being garish. There is suitable background music, but at a sensibly low level so that conversation is possible.

The service was friendly, helpful and discrete - and the wine list interesting. The first course of Moroccan salads were of better than usual quality and an interesting variety. The diners I was with were seasoned Fez foodies and so held back on the salads, knowing that the main course was still to come. It should also be mentioned that the food arrived after a suitable pause and without the long wait that often occurs in restaurants around the world.

Photo credit: Suzanna Clarke
The only problem with the main course was that all of us decided on the same dish, so I can't report on the chicken with preserved lemon and olives, the couscous with vegetables, the Bastilla (with fresh pigeon) or the lamb with prunes. Our entire table heard that lamb with figs and almonds was on offer and were rewarded for their choice by a serving of the most tender lean lamb - and it did taste like lamb, rather than mutton. The figs and almonds were a perfect accompaniment.

The final course was a traditional sweet bastilla with nuts and milk custard - simply delicious. Coffee followed and when we eventually strolled out into the mild night air it was with the satisfaction of having had a very good meal in elegant and peaceful surroundings.

For a look at their fine accommodation: Dar Anebar

Contact details:
Phone for reservation 035635785
Email: info@daranebar

If you have any doubts about finding your way there, the very amiable owner, Ahmed Azami will usually arrange for someone to guide you.

Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A day trip from Fez

2006-12-07T08:56:00.000Z

Spectacular Middle Atlas scenery
For those with a reasonable amount of time in Fez, day trips are a great way to take a break from the Medina. The usual destinations are Meknes and Volubilis. However today we would like to suggest another town in the Middle Atlas with a country souq. Every week in Morocco there are more than 800 country souqs held. Usually the name of the souq is the name of the day on which it is held. So being Tuesday, we headed to the Tuesday souq at Azrou.

Travelling by grand taxi ( about 500 - 600 dirhams for the day) six of us went via Imouzzer to the resort and university town of Ifrane where we paused for coffee. Most of the tour parties stop at the first hotel (Les Chamoix), but we would suggest going a little further into the town and trying one of the more reasonably priced cafes. Ifrane is a little like a European alpine village and the architecture will remind you of a Switzerland.

Friendly local outside Ifrane (see footnote)

On past Ifrane you travel through cedar and oak forest ( we stopped to take a look at the wild life in the cedar forests)) to Azrou. The name is Berber for "rock" owing to a strange volcanic outcrop just outside the town. At 1250 metres it can be chill so go prepared.

Azrou carpet souq
The Tuesday Souq is hard to miss, as from early morning the people stream into the open area outside the town in their hundreds. Just inside the gates are some of the cheapest carpets ( compared to Fez) although the quality is variable. Bargain hard and you should be able to get something worthwhile. Look out for the red carpets with geometric motifs as these are the speciality of the Beni M'Gid Berbers who gave up the nomadic lifestyle and founded the town.

Azrou Mosque
In the centre of the town is a strip of restaurants serving basic Moroccan dishes, but be prepared to pay tourist prices. A street meal that would usually cost six of us around 100 dirhams cost double that as we were charged for the usually complimentary olives and salad. Still, the chicken was delicious.

Azrou town centre
The Berber village of Ain Leuh, 30 km South of Azrou, is the venue for a Middle Atlas arts festival in July. Country markets are held here on Mondays and Thursdays.

Fine Berber carpet
Pics - Suzanna Clarke

Footnote: No monkey was harmed in creating this post!

In light of the fact that JULIA ROBERTS courted controversy this week when she posed for photographs with chained monkeys in Morocco we would like to say that the monkey in our photograph was an unchained pregnant female beside the road in the Middle Atlas. She agreed to pose after falling in love with our friend Mark's wristwatch.

The problem started for the Oscar winner when she took time out of filming CHARLIE WILSON'S WAR to enjoy the sights of Marrakech. Roberts succumbed to the tourist attraction of cuddling up with performing Barbary monkeys in the city's famed Djemaa El Fna.

Animal rights groups and respected guides such as Lonely Planet encourage tourists to refrain from paying to pose with the macaques, who are kept in chains in the bustling city all day and are removed from their natural habitat in the nearby Atlas Mountains.

Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A day trip from Marrakech

2006-12-07T08:27:00.000Z

Recently we posted about a day trip from Fez that takes you into Berber country and some wonderfully inexpensive carpet buying. Several readers wrote and asked us about other trips, so today we head south from Marrakech, across the plain and up through the foothills of the High Atlas.

There are several fine Berber market towns and hamlets such as Asni and Moulay Brahim, but our destination is a lunch in very beautiful surroundings just a 90 minute drive from Marrakech.

La Roseraie at Ouirgaine is surrounded by 50 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, the main attraction being the roses. The best time is April and May, but the roses are in bloom through to December. The air at 3000 ft is sweet from the scent of roses and the hotel encircled by forests, snow-topped peaks and rugged valleys. There is accomodation so if you are interested in trekking, horse riding or bird-watching or if you are an artist, gardener or seclusion-seeker you will think you have arrived in heaven.

La Roseraie has 40 cottage-style rooms and suites, all with bathroom, patio leading into the gardens and some junior suites with an open wood-burning fireplace. There are 4 swimming pools (1 indoor and 3 outdoor) and 2 tennis courts. Meals are served on the shaded terrace or the indoor restaurant.

La Roseraie Riding Centre

The well established riding centre at La Roseraie has superb Arab horses which guests can ride by the hour or by the day or with a local guide into the surrounding countryside, spending one to five nights in simple Berber houses en route.

La Roseraie Health Centre

With the emphasis on healthy living, this facet of La Roseraie offers its guests the use of an heated indoor pool, jacuzzi, hammam, sauna and fitness equipment together with staff specialising in facial and body treatments in Shiatsu massage, reflexology, hydro-jet massage and hammam with manicure and pedicure

We went for a day trip and a delightful lunch, but obviously it is a place one could stay for a while. Phone ahead for reservation or more info. 08707 - 406 306

Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The best little restaurant in Fez

2006-12-07T07:48:00.000Z

Thami - the best kept secret in Fez.

The View from Fez team were divided on whether or not to reveal our favourite eating spot in the Fez Medina, but after a lot of discussion a vote was held and those in favour won the day.

Tourists visiting Fez are usually guided to "palace" restaurants where the menu is Moroccan salads, chicken or lamb tagine with couscous followed by fruit and mint tea. For the average visitor, street food is something they approach with undue caution. But we are here to tell you the street food is great.

So where do you go if you want to watch the crowds and enjoy a simple, delicious meal at very reasonable prices and no fuss? The answer is Thami's Restaurant.

At this point we should mention that in the context of Thami, the word "restaurant" should be taken to mean a simple table set on a street corner. In fact, the owner and chef, Thami started off a few years ago with a single table and four chairs. The following year he expanded to six chairs with two tables covered with a single tablecloth and now he has managed to take over another small area of footpath and has a second table with two chairs - such is capitalism.

On our latest visit we noticed that Thami has a gorgeous new red tablecloth and even matching seat covers. A candle twinkled in the neck of a tagine lid - such opulence! There is also a smart new menu in French and English. At the first sign of an approaching tourist, Thami weaves his way through the crowds on the street and presents them with the card. This is hard work, as his strike rate is often as low as one in fifty. Yet when the restaurant is busy, people in the know, find themselves having to nip around to the Batha Hotel to assuage their thirst while waiting for a seat. Once you get a seat you could well find yourself chatting with some of the Medina's most colourful identities - poets, renovators, English teachers and photographers.

Thami is up against stiff competition. To one side of his small hole-in-the-wall kitchen are a row of smart cafes and several terrace restaurants with ambiance much more appealing than a simple table on a busy corner near the Baboujeloud. So why do so many of the expats and Moroccan's regularly visit Thami? The answer is simple. The food is simple, cheap and fresh - and in five years of eating there - nobody has had any need to rush for the immodium! The second reason is Thami himself. He is a really nice person who looks after his regular customers as if they were members of his family.

The one drawback to Thami's is the fact that being located in such a great spot for watching the passing throng some of the locals have taken up almost permanent residence on some of his chairs and often need prying away from them with a crowbar.

We suggest you try the tagine of kefta with egg, the melange and his fish.

Thami's Restaurant is at the very top of the Tala'a Sghira on the corner that turns right to the Baboujeloud and the Tala'a Kbira. He is open for lunch and in the evenings from about 7 onwards. The restaurant is the best kept secret in Fez, so don't tell anyone else, okay?

Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Behind the beaded curtain - Tangier Bars.

2006-12-07T07:45:00.000Z

A foray into some of Tangier’s sleazy dives

Lumen found herself with a couple of hours to spare in Tangier last Sunday evening and decided to check out some of the more interesting bars. Diane had a dream of smoking a cigarette and drinking a beer in such a place, having once met William S. Burroughs at Alan Ginsberg’s apartment in New York.

Ricky made the perfect guide: with a house in nearby Asilah, he’s had plenty of time over the years to explore the nether regions of the city. One of the last people to meet Paul Bowles before the author’s death, Ricky first guided us to Dean’s Bar, an old hang-out of the Bowles set.

There’s a sign above the door that says it dates from 1937. Pushing aside the wooden beaded curtain revealed a dim and smoky bar with men sitting around it on stools. It was like stepping back all those 70 years. In the back room a few men were watching a match on TV. This and the Real Madrid football posters on the walls were the only concessions to the new millennium. Oum Kaltoum sang out plaintively from the bar area, the lights were low, and the waiter in waistcoat and flat cap brought beers and tapas. Diane cadged a cigarette from one of the patrons and sank back happily into her black leatherette chair.

Yet another beaded curtain revealed the Pi-lo bar, not that you’d ever find a sign to say that’s its name. The bar was crowded with people. Every inch of wall space is covered in paintings, from kitsch girls with puppies to huge landscapes. One wall is hung with an embroidered tinselly cloth surrounded by plastic flowers. Tables are covered with red satin cloths full of cigarette burns, more artfully draped red satin curtains adorn the blacked-out windows and screechy Berber music fills the air. The people were cheerful and friendly, interested to see foreign women in such a male-dominated place.

More beers and more tapas – good ones, rice salad, tomato and cucumber salad, spicy chickpeas and chicken livers, and beers only Dh15 each. Just then a curious face peered round the corner – one of the girls from the upstairs bar, resplendent in gauzy pink chiffon with gold trim. No doubt she’d heard there were strange women downstairs and had to see for herself, just to make sure … but she soon saw she didn’t need to worry about losing her customers, and went back upstairs.

When things heated up Lumen made her exit

Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

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